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Cookbook Review: A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes
Now that we're several months into the Gourmet Cookbook
Club, we know well what it is to ride the waves of hope and
disappointment that come with new titles. Many of the current...
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Sustainable Sushi: Coming Soon?
Seafood chefs around the U.S. are paying a lot more attention to sustainability and the environment these days, but one group of fish-wielding chefs has yet to jump on the bandwagon: sushi chefs. Considering the vast quantities of tuna, salmon, shrimp, eel, and other creatures from the sea that Americans gobble down in the form of sushi, this is a major omission. What’s worse, the global sushi trade relies heavily on fishing and farming methods that damage ecosystems and leave particularly massive carbon footprints. Read More »
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Sampling Seal Meat in an Inuit Village
I arrived in Kuujjuaq, 900 miles north of Montreal, to report a
story on Arctic tourism. I would be there for the summer and was
eager to sample the local fare. Unfortunately the only two
restaurants in town specialized in cheese fries and pizza. The
"country...
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Politics of the Plate: Salmongate
At the very least, there was something fishy about Alaska Governor (and Vice Presidential hopeful) Sarah Palin’s decision to speak out publicly against the state’s Clean Water Initiative late last month. There may also be something blatantly illegal about her advocacy for defeating the ballot initiative, which ultimately failed to pass when 57 percent of Alaskans voted against it. Read More »
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Baltimore’s New School Chef: Wiping out frozen lunches from school lunchroom menus
Walking through a field of
rich soil at Arnold Farms on Maryland's rural Eastern Shore, Tony
Geraci plucks a ripe tomato off the vine and bites in. As the
juices spill out, Geraci, the new top chef for the Baltimore school
system, smiles broadly. "I'm thinking about a fresh tomato salad...
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Why You Should Avoid Raw Salmon
Salmon tartare—eye-catching, fun, hip and tasty—has become a popular menu item in many top restaurants. Celebrity chefs prepare it on television. Mainstream magazines, newspapers, and cookbooks feature recipes. Raw salmon dishes—tartare, crudo, sushi, marinated and cured salmon—are growing in popularity. But unless that fish has been frozen first, it would be wise to pass.
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The Recipe: Frozen Watermelon-Lime Bars
Have you ever had a key lime pie? Me too. Who hasn’t? There are lots of variations on the theme, but they all have one thing in common (aside from lime juice): They’re all pies.
I like key lime pie. I especially like two versions: my Mom’s (hi Mom) and Steve’s. Steve’s key lime pie comes from his place in Red Hook, Brooklyn, and it’s frozen. I had Steve’s frozen dessert one hot summer day, and it changed the way I think about key lime pie. I started thinking about it not as pie, but as frozen custard, like ice cream or semifreddo. That’s what I want for dessert in the summer—something frozen.
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The (Cocktail) Recipe: The Green Lantern
When I came up with the idea for a parsley-lime cooler, it was met with skepticism. One of my bosses asked how I planned on keeping it a nice bright green color. Another boss, while discussing her concerns with the drink, used the word “swampy” not once, but several times.
I tried it anyway.
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Ten August Favorites: Portable Picnic Fare
The August issue of Gourmet is packed with portable picnic fare. Here’s a look at the editors’ top picks. Head over to gourmet.com for the full slideshow.
Jalapeño PoppersPhotograph by Romulo Yanes
Try to eat just one. A haute version of the favorite bar food, these bites resemble miniature chiles rellenos. A double layer of bread crumbs is the key to their miraculously crisp exterior. Read More »- Let’s talk: Comment (0) | Blog
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Gourmet’s Guide to Buying Sustainable Seafood
The afternoon that I spoke to Henry Lovejoy, president of the sustainable-seafood purveyor EcoFish, both of us, separately, had eaten tuna for lunch: canned albacore caught in the Pacific Ocean. Same species, same ocean, but Lovejoy’s lunch was environmentally benign. Mine, I’m embarrassed to say, was an ecological disaster.
The difference was that Lovejoy’s tuna salad was made from albacore caught by a boat trolling off Southern California. Mine came from Thailand, and it was caught in tropical waters on a long line that drifted across miles of ocean, trailing hundreds of baited hooks, killing not only the tuna that became my lunch, but endangered sea turtles, sharks, pelagic birds, and dozens of other aquatic species—all dumped dead back into the water as bycatch.
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