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How to cook the perfect shrimp
Summer is just around the corner (weather-wise and according to the calendar) and few ingredients are better suited to the warmer months than shrimp. They're versatile in the kitchen, don't stick-to-your-ribs, and cook up in a jiffy. I love them in shrimp cocktail, salads, appetizers, dips, and sandwiches. But they're easily overcooked—a mistake far too many people make. Read More »
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Back to Basics: The Mashing Fork
Being a kitchen-gear crazy, I like to think that I'm pretty up on what's out there, but the other night I realized that sometimes you've got to go back to stay ahead. I was watching a very early episode of The French Chef, Julia Child's groundbreaking television series of the 1960s, and there she was, majestic and warbly, expounding on the lowly spud and wielding a mashing fork, a gizmo I'd never laid eyes on. It looked like a kitchen fork that had been bent by one-too-many mash-ups with a tater, but, in fact, the bend was built-in, the better to press the tubers into chunky submission. Read More »
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Silence of the Lambs: The rising cost of meat
Draguignan, France: Robert, the butcher with the bedside manner, was uncharacteristically customerless on a Saturday market morning. The aging ladies who once jammed his shop were now pushing carts at Carrefour. In his meat locker, Robert delivered a loving pat to the plump withers of a clover-fed Sisteron lamb that should have been sharing a plate with tender green beans as someone's gigot. "In a few years," he told me, "these will be a fond memory."
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Kona Kampachi: A new farm-raised fish we should all eat
Fresh off the farm.We've all read the depressing accounts of vanishing fish stocks from the world's oceans due to overfishing, global warming, and a number of other factors (read all about it here, here, and here). If our children's children have any hope of eating seafood, aquaculture and farm-raised fish must play an important role. The jury is still out on some farm-raised fish and shellfish (here) but there are some success stories including the oyster industry.
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Spring Ingredient Trifecta: Asparagus, soft-shell crabs, and ramps
You know it's spring on the East Coast when three ingredients turn up at farmers' markets and on restaurant menus: asparagus, soft-shell crabs, and ramps. Sometimes you'll even find them all in one dish. Read More »
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Endangered Street Vendors: Help Save Los Angeles's Taco Trucks!
I love street tacos. Lucky for me, living in Los Angeles means living among the bounty of taco trucks scattered throughout the city. They've rescued me during those treacherous nights in college when I'd be cramming for tests and writhing from hunger pains. Even now, I'll have my carne asada taco from Tacos Don Jorge in Culver City when the opportunity arises.
A few weeks ago, Los Angeles County supervisors passed a new law restricting taco truck vendors from selling their goods in any one location for more than an hour. Breaking the law means a $1,000 fine and/or six months in jail. Read More »
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Eating On the Edge #29: What Frog means to France
On NPR the other day, Rachel Martin asked me about recent alarm that France might be giving up on frogs legs, what with ecological and animal cruelty concerns. True, pesticides are taking a toll on both the green and red amphibians whose plump thighs are the stuff of those beloved cuisses de... Read More »
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Is Peanut-Fed Berkshire Pork The Next Kobe Beef?
Except for the occasional Southern-style country ham my father would lug home after a business trip that took him deep into Dixie, I was always envious of the Europeans and their superior pork products. The Italians had prosciutto. The Germans had Black Forrest Ham. And the Spanish, I would... Read More »
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How to Pour the Perfect Coke
Is Coca-Cola going high end? In Atlanta, the birthplace of the classic soda brand, it looks that way. At Holeman and Finch, the new spot from the Restaurant Eugene team, Coke is used as an ingredient in entrees and cocktails, including the Southern Cola, a mix of cola, Italian Amaro, and frozen... Read More »
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See Wee Restaurant: A lowcountry legend where fried seafood is king
Hype can kill a restaurant. One or two stellar reviews (here and here) and subsequent diners arrive expecting the
perfect meal. But when the late legendary R.W. Apple anoints a spot a
must visit the stakes are even higher. Consider his write up of See Wee Restaurant in Awendaw, South Carolina,... Read More »- Let’s talk: Comment (1) | Blog
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