The other night my husband and I were having dinner at a new New York restaurant, Shorty's .32. The chef, Josh Eden, worked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten for a dozen years and it shows-this is some of the best food you can find in a neighborhood restaurant this side of Paris. The couple next to us ordered a bottle of red wine, tasted it and then scrunched up their noses, let squeak an "ick" and told the server that something was terribly wrong with the wine because it tasted like Manischewitz! The server took a whiff and a sip, said she'd never had Manischewitz and added that if it tasted anything like the wine she'd just served, she'd be sure to avoid it.
I don't know what was wrong with our neighbor's wine and I can't imagine any modern-day wine that tastes like Manischewitz, but, having sipped it at many a Passover seder, I understand immediately how it could become the catch-all phrase for any wine that's totally, completely and unequivocally undrinkable. I can only wonder
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