Eating for a living is a good way to pick up bad habits: When I develop recipes, for instance, I buy whatever perfection I need without ever looking at the price, and if a cake or a ragout or a gratin is not perfect, I have no qualms about scraping it straight into the trash and starting over. But like everyone these days, I've got to change my wasteful ways.
Not only have imported essentials like Dijon mustard and piquillo peppers gotten scarily pricey as the dollar has gone from weak to staggering. But even staples like flour and rice have edged up toward luxury level, and with the global food supply under siege right now, squandering anything edible feels increasingly hard to justify, either morally or environmentally.
But how hard will my old habits be to break? The first night I swore I was going into hyper-conservation mode happened to be one when I was cooking dinner for a forgiving friend last spring. I saved all the woody stalks snapped off the bottoms of
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