A lively twist on a niçoise salad, made with a luscious homemade version of canned tuna and Swiss chard stems. Read on for chef Gabrielle Hamilton's delicious fish recipe.
Poaching tuna in a bath of olive oil is a common restaurant technique. It's reminiscent of canned tuna, but more luxurious: moist and silky, tender and delicate, brightly flavored.
The tuna matters, of course, but the heart of this dish is the olive oil. I use an oil made from the Greek Kalamata varietal, which hangs very nicely in the balance between buttery and mild and acidic and grassy. It's already good enough to sip on its own, but the gentle warming of it while the tuna poaches at a low temperature makes it "bloom," and I find the fragrance and intensified flavor as compelling as just-ground coffee. The tuna absorbs that flavor.
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The salady condiment makes the dish a satisfyingly lively and gorgeously hued version of a niçoise salad, with new
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