Blog Posts by Andrew Knowlton, BA Foodist, Bon Appetit Magazine

In his cookbook The Glory of Southern Cooking, James Villas writes, "As far I'm concerned, Southern cookery is right there on the same level with French cuisine bourgeoise and Italian cucina casereccia--the sacred traditions, the incredible variety of regional dishes, the prevalence of fresh local ingredients, the distinctive cooking techniques, everything." As a native Southerner, I couldn't agree more.

A few years back such a claim would certainly have shocked a few Yankees (and even a few Southerners); today, as Southern food's influence and appeal grows, it seems natural.

When I moved up north 11 years ago, people had heard of grits but wouldn't dare try them (even if they could get their hands on the real, stone-ground variety). Fried chicken was a fast food indulgence rarely cooked by anyone who called himself a chef. Eating pork, in all its fatty glory, was a health risk. Other staples of the Southern table--pimento cheese, lard biscuits, Brunswick stew, shrimp and grits,

Dear BA Foodist,

I'm a serious foodie, but I stray into fast-food affairs. How can I break the cycle?-Jack Grigsby, San Diego

Dear Jack,

There's no need, if you know where to go. Anyone who can say no to an In-N-Out burger, animal-style, is not human.

The Foodist has noticed a number of foreign fast-food chains setting up shop on our shores. When Pollo Campero, the Guatemalan chain, opened in New York, the Foodist was one of the first to try the mojo-sauce-marinated chicken. And don't tell the Colonel, but the Korean chain BonChon Chicken, with locations in New York, California, and Virginia, serves up tasty, greaseless fried chicken.

Related: Is this NYC's best burger?

Jollibee, from the Philippines, has locations in New York, California, and Nevada. In addition to burgers, Jollibee has Palabok Fiesta-rice noodles topped with palabok sauce, pork chicharrón bits, sautéed pork, shrimp, and hard-boiled egg. You won't need to super-size it.

The Foodist's current

Dear BA Foodist,

I remember when beef short ribs used to be a good deal at restaurants and in supermarkets. But now they seem to cost as much as a good steak. What's a cheapskate carnivore to do?-Tom Long, St. Louis

Dear Roberta,

It's funny how one day a butcher can't even give away a certain cut of meat (i.e., skirt steak, short ribs, beef cheeks), and the next day it's on every top restaurant's menu and the price skyrockets. Still, that doesn't mean heart is your only choice these days for bargain protein (although if you've never had sweet-and-sour duck hearts on toast, you're missing out-honest). Oxtail can still be cheap, despite having crossed over successfully into high-end restaurants in dishes like oxtail ragù and ravioli. Now, I'm not going to try to convince you that brains, spleen, or gonads are the next big food trend. But tongue-I'll do my best.

Cheap cuts of meat can still deliver big flavor. Here are some great humble cuts and how to get lofty results when

It's party season, and I'm bored with giving wine as a host gift. I always spend way too much on a bottle that usually ends up being consumed by someone other than the host. What else could I bring? -PATRICIA F., Springfield, IL

Dear Patricia,

I used to be a bottle-of-wine kind of guy. That is, until I watched a rather intoxicated guest drink my gift straight from the bottle at a friend's holiday party. Never again, I decided. The solution was my mom's chicken liver pâté. Two years ago, I started giving it away to colleagues and as a host gift. This pâté is silky-smooth and not overly livery-tasting. Don't tell my mom, but I've provided you with the recipe here. When the holiday party season starts, go buy some eight-ounce mason jars and fill them with the pâté. Attach small cards or stickers to the jars, and when you arrive at the party, quietly put a jar in your host's refrigerator. I've found that guests will pilfer booze out of the fridge, but food-not so much. The day

Dear BA Foodist,

Dear Tim,

A chef the Foodist once worked with said that there are two things you must always do before cooking: Wash your hands, and sharpen your knives. The former is a no-brainer (I hope); the latter, as you pointed out, takes a bit more expertise. Most home cooks need to sharpen their knives only once or twice a year, but the importance of a sharp knife cannot be overstated-it will make you a better, safer cook.

Rule no. 1: Never sharpen your knives on an electric grinder or file. Yes, I know many shops and farmers' markets do it this way, but it kills the blade and greatly shortens its life span. Using a grinder is fine for your scissors and the blade of your lawn mower but not for your prized Santoku.

Rule no. 2: Use either a synthetic or

Dear BA Foodist,

I've been seeing a lot of weird salts at the market: pink, Maldon, black, red, flavored, smoked. And every single one of them costs more than what I'm used to paying. Are they worth it?--SALLY NADER, West Jordan, UT

Dear Sally,

The fancy varieties you describe are what I think of as finishing salts: A little bit added to a dish at the table can bring an extra hit of flavor and texture. But for my money, and for a lot of restaurant chefs, you can't beat coarse kosher salt.

The Foodist used to think all salt was created equal until a peek into some of America's most famous restaurant kitchens revealed the universal presence of kosher salt. While iodized salt is the standard for baking, chefs love kosher salt for its coarse texture (easy to pinch and sprinkle evenly over food) and clean, bright flavor, and because it's dirt cheap (kosher salt costs 4 cents per ounce; sea salt is about 75 cents and up per ounce). I go through a 3-pound box--preferably

Dear BA Foodist,

I have a dirty secret: I hate turkey. And I want to do something about it. Can I just forgo the fowl this year?
-Josephina Mccarthy, Gallup, NM

Dear Josephina,
You traitor. Of all the unpatriotic acts to commit, I know of none more severe than not serving turkey on Thanksgiving. It's what the Pilgrims served, and it's what our grandchildren will serve.

I'd load the musket and demand you take back what you said--if only I didn't feel the same way.

The Foodist hates turkey. There, I admit it. I've always had turkey on Thanksgiving. I've had it roasted, brined and roasted, deep-fried, smoked, and stuffed with a chicken and a duck (Turducken). No matter what kind of turkey I cook--factory-farmed, wild, heritage breed--it always underwhelms, even when it's perfectly cooked with juices flowing. What would turkey be without gravy or cranberry sauce? Not much. And when was the last time you saw turkey on the menu at a well-regarded restaurant?

Dear BA Foodist,

Can you set me straight on tipping? I was once told that 20 percent is for great service, 15 percent for bad. Unless a waiter's gone overboard, I'm an 18 percenter, but I was recently accused of being stingy. Am I wrong, or wasn't 10 percent considered fair not too long ago? Give me a tip I can use. --TIPPER G., Albuquerque

Dear Tipper G.,

Ah, the great tipping conundrum. You are not alone. At a meal's end, I often find myself staring at the blank lines of a credit-card receipt, concerned that the effects of too much wine and food will impair my basic algebra skills. (That's what a spouse is for: making sure it all adds up correctly.) Still, I think I can help.

The Foodist waited tables many years ago at a small, well-regarded spot in Brooklyn. (Incidentally, one evening he waited on a major food critic who later gave the restaurant a one-star review. The critic liked the food but described the service as "friendly but very slow and fumbling." Oh,