Luscious, nutritious figs are in season right now and great for a variety of rich dishes.By Martha Rose Shulman
The sign read "Aujourd'hui, Omelette aux Girolles, Tarte aux Figues." I just got a glimpse of it as I rounded a corner, speeding along a windy road in the back-country above Cannes on a sunny late morning in July. Fig tart? Wild mushroom omelet? I grabbed the funny gearshift that protruded from the dashboard of my rented Renault, downshifted and looked for a place to turn around. It was not too early for lunch.
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I've turned in my tracks for fresh figs on more than one occasion. They've nourished me on steep summer mountain walks in Provence and in Greece, where the trees grow wild and the figs are there for the taking. When I lived in France, summer lunches would either begin with a platter of ripe figs and sliced Cavaillon melon or end with a platter of goat cheese and figs.
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I'd discovered the joy of this most sensuous of fruits even before I began my
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