Long Hair
The Goal: Volume and body around the hairline and smooth,
silky strands from roots to ends.
Step 1: To prep your hair for drying, rub a few
drops of
smoothing serum between your palms, then run your
hands down the damp hair, suggests Julien Farel, owner of the
Julien Farel Salon, in New York City. Use a comb to distribute the
product evenly, and begin predrying hair on a medium-heat and
high-speed setting. Massage hair at the roots to give it lift. Part
your hair and secure the top layers with clips.
Step 2: Attach the nozzle to your dryer, and turn
the heat setting up and the speed of the air down. (Heat allows you
to manipulate the shape of your hair, but you don't want the
uncontrollable force of a leaf blower.) Starting with the back
section, direct small, manageable sections of hair forward with a
large round brush as you dry to create a smoother, fuller
appearance. Dry from roots to ends, moving the brush and the dryer
together down the hair shafts. Always keep the airflow angled down
toward the ends, which will make the cuticles lie flat and
ultimately make your hair look smoother and shinier. Work your way
around your head. Unclip the top layers and repeat.
Step 3: To style the hair around your face, roll
the layers forward on the brush as you dry, says Farel. Be sure to
keep a comfortable tension between your hair and the brush to
achieve a sleek, flat-ironed effect. After your hair is dry to the
touch, give it a blast of cool air to set the style in place.
Finally, massage a pea-size amount of smoothing serum (or styling
cream) into the ends to flatten flyaways, and pat the top of your
head with your hands so that any residual serum will level shorter,
broken hairs that tend to stand up around the crown. Real Simple
picks: Phytolisse Finishing Serum ($30, sephora.com). A few drops
eliminate frizz and add sleekness. Scunci Thick Hair Clips ($3 for
two at drugstores). These will hold heavy, damp hair out of the way
while you blow-dry. Choose a
blow dryer that's just right for your hair
needs.
Short Hair
The Goal: Soft texture, volume, and hold.
Step 1: Mix together a pea-size amount of styling cream
and a dime-size amount of extra-hold gel. "Combining styling
cream with hair gel helps give hair lots of soft, touchable texture
that won't fall flat," says Paul Brown, owner of the Paul
Brown Salons & Day Spas, in Hawaii. Use your fingertips to
massage in the mixture from roots to ends. Then set the dryer to a
medium speed and heat setting and pinch and twist one-inch sections
while aiming airflow at the roots to help establish lift.
Step 2: Focus the warm air on the roots.
"Drying roots first helps support the hair, giving it lots of
lift and volume," says Brown. Work your way around your head
and, when the roots are completely dry, style the sections around
your face using a small round ceramic brush, which holds heat
longer than a
wooden or plastic one. Continue using the brush to dry
the ends of the rest of your hair.
Step 3: Put a dime-size amount of pomade in one
palm and rub your hands together to warm the product. "Pomades
are often stiff," says Brown. "Warming one up in your
hands will make it easier to use." Use your fingers to pinch
pomade onto ends of small sections to define layers, create a
sleeker look, and give your style hold. Real Simple picks: Aquage
Fortifying Ultragel ($16, aquage.com for store locations). An
extra-hold gel and styling cream in one. Aveda Light Elements
Defining Whip ($22, aveda.com). An airy whipped wax gives hair
texture and hold after drying. Stock up on
hair products that work for your hair type.
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