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Wednesday, December 16, 2009

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Cookware 101: Which pots to stock

Wendell T. Webber

Wendell T. Webber

Pick the right pan for the right task.

Cast Iron

One of cast iron's great advantages is that it's so heavy―and therefore retains and distributes heat nicely. Of course, one of its great disadvantages is that it's, well, so heavy. Along the same contradictory lines: It lasts forever with proper care and seasoning, and for some this can take forever. (Seasoning means oiling and baking the pan to give it a nonstick surface naturally.) But one big advantage is affordability: A 10-inch cast-iron skillet costs about $14, while the same size stainless pan can cost up to $140.

How to identify: A cast-iron pot is extremely heavy and looks as if it should be hanging in Laura Ingalls's kitchen.

When to use: For nonstick sautéing or cooking dishes that need to go from stove-top to oven, such as potato gratin and frittatas. Also use it if you have to fry large pieces of meat straight from the refrigerator, because cast iron will not cool. Why does that matter? "When you've lost the temperature, you've lost the ability to sear and caramelize," says John Ash, a culinary teacher and the author of Cooking One on One: Private Lessons in Simple, Contemporary Food from a Msater Teacher (Clarkson Potter, $38, amazon.com).

When not to use: While conventional wisdom says not to use cast iron with acidic foods because it releases a metallic taste, Ash says this reaction is barely perceptible and actually adds iron to the food.

How to clean: Use a nonabrasive sponge and water. Never use soap or steel wool.

See Real Simple's Guide to Storing Pots and Pans

Wendell T. Webber

Wendell T. Webber

Enameled Cast Iron

Unlike uncoated cast iron, these pots don't require seasoning, and they're attractive enough to go from stovetop to tabletop. Like regular cast iron, they're heavy and have superb heat-retention properties.

How to identify: An enameled cast-iron pot or pan is going to be the heaviest one hanging from the rack. The enamel interior is often white. Some are enameled only on the exterior (like the skillet pictured). The most popular enameled cast-iron pot is a Dutch oven.

When to use: As soon as the weather turns chilly―comfort foods and enameled cast-iron Dutch ovens go hand in hand. Cast iron retains a relatively even temperature over a long period, so it's perfect for making soups and stews. A thinner aluminum pan on the same burner over the same temperature will accumulate heat, and the food will stick or burn on the bottom. Also, like regular cast iron, this is a good choice for recipes that require stovetop-to-oven cooking.

When not to use: When you're in a hurry. Like regular cast iron, it retains even heat for long, slow cooking, but it takes the pan a long time to get to that point. When you have to sauté something fast, this is not the pan you want.

How to clean: Pans with metal or plastic (not wooden) handles can be put in the dishwasher. Or wash enameled interiors in hot, soapy water using a sponge scouring pad (never metal).

From Real Simple: The Best Materials for Pots and Pans

Wendell T. Webber

Wendell T. Webber

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is a poor conductor, but paired with an inner core or a base of aluminum or copper, it's the wonder metal of cookware. Stainless pots can be used for any kind of cooking, since they're nonreactive (meaning the metal doesn't interact with the food or affect the final flavor). It's incredibly easy to clean them.

How to identify: They're usually the brightest, shiniest ones in the pantry. The more affordable stainless pots have aluminum or copper disks bonded to their bases. (For optimum performance, the disk should cover the entire base.) The most expensive stainless cookware has the layer of aluminum or copper sandwiched between the steel on the base and up the sides. Such a pan's base may be stamped CLAD, which signifies the manufacturing technology, not the brand All-Clad.

When to use: Although you can use stainless pots for almost any kind of cooking, they're especially good for browning or for recipes that require gauging the color of a broth or a sauce. The light metal makes a neutral backdrop for what's going on inside the pot.

When not to use: Boiling water in a stainless stockpot with a heat conducting-disk forged to its base will take longer than boiling in an anodized pot, because the sides never get very hot.

How to clean: Stainless steel can withstand dishwashers and abrasive cleansers without scratching or denting.

More from Real Simple:
Non-stick Aluminum, Hard-Anodized Aluminum, and Copper Pots
How to Clean Cookware
Top 20 Kitchen Tools

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From the Community…

Comments 1-10 of 10
  • Jezabel's Avatar
    Posted by Jezabel Wed Mar 4, 2009 8:09am PST

    I love my cast irons and copper pans. I don't own any nonstick because my currents pans are so good food sticking to them is almost of no concern. Besides even if food gets stuck just make a sauce or put warm water in the pan (with the food removed) to loosen it up. The only thing nonstick does well is cooking eggs, but even that can be done on the cast iron with enough practice.

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  • SFSlug's Avatar
    Posted by SFSlug Wed Mar 4, 2009 10:03am PST

    I recently bought a couple of cast iron pans, and they came already seasoned. In fact, pre-seasoned cast iron cookware is readily available, so I don't understand why it wasn't mentioned in this article. Besides that, this is a great overview of cookware.

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  • gregory h's Avatar
    Posted by gregory h Wed Mar 4, 2009 12:24pm PST

    CAST IRON RULES!!!!!!!

    Report Abuse
  • "Coolman"'s Avatar
    Posted by "Coolman" Wed Mar 4, 2009 7:07pm PST

    I have one and it's great!.

    Report Abuse
  • ckandw's Avatar
    Posted by ckandw Wed Mar 4, 2009 7:36pm PST

    cast iron is great for winter when you want to blacken fish or chicken...also when we have to cook steak indoors we do it in the cast iron skillet and sear both sides before putting it in the broiler...

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  • andi's Avatar
    Posted by andi Thu Mar 5, 2009 12:34am PST

    cast iron is amazing. i can't remember a time when my grandma wasn't frying something up in a cast iron pan lol. if you don't have one go out and get one right now!

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  • Matthew's Avatar
    Posted by Matthew Thu Mar 5, 2009 3:31pm PST

    just bought a cast iron pan, works wonders,cleaning up is a breeze, saves me plenty of time, highly recomended

    Report Abuse
  • ButchR's Avatar
    Posted by ButchR Fri Mar 6, 2009 1:44am PST

    I live and work n the middle east, everytime I move to another country to work I have to leave my cast iron pots and fry pans. It always takes a while to find new ones in the new country. I finally found a shop selling them this week, I've been in Qatar five months, and I'm cooking with them now. My Mom and also my late wife used them exclusively and I hunt them down wherever I go. (They're just too heavy for a suitcase.) Always a happy day when I find them. I have to look because it's not something a man asks for, right?

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  • __A_YAHOO_USER__'s Avatar
    Posted by __A_YAHOO_USER__ Fri Mar 6, 2009 2:31pm PST

    Cast Irons are good. I've used them before but I haven't got any of my own yet. I'm planning to revamp some of my cookware!!! Great tips!!

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  • aarthi a's Avatar
    Posted by aarthi a Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:38am PST

    Cast iron pans are more useful and is the most famous apart from the pans that are used in the same field.....

    Report Abuse
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