Here's a foolproof way to cook (or poach) shrimp that eliminates the overcooking problem. In this method the heat sort of sneaks up on them and, voila, they're done way before they are tough. Start with large fresh shrimp in the shell, place them in a saucepan, and cover with cold water and a pinch of coarse kosher salt. Over medium-low heat cook until the shells turn red (or deep pink) and the shrimp slightly curl. Every once in a while, pull one out with tongs and poke the exposed head-end section to see if it is firm enough. When they feel firm and look opaque (rather than translucent), cut a thin slice of meat off the head-end and taste. If it's cooked to your liking drain shrimp and let cool. Otherwise, cook seconds longer and test again. The water should never reach a simmer. Now, if you just had a few recipes for your perfectly cooked shrimp. Presto!
--Selma Morrow, associate food editor
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