After tasting 20 pies, we found a winner and 3 others we'd gladly eat again
Pizza lovers have very particular tastes. Some folks want the crust to be thick and chewy, others like it cracker-crisp. Some demand abundant amounts of gooey cheese, while others prefer plenty of tomato sauce. To each their own. But we think there are a few key factors on which we can all agree.
The ultimate pie cannot be soggy. It needs some structure and resilience. The tomato sauce must not be one-dimensional, too salty, or watery: It should show some sweetness, and be reasonably thick and full of body. The cheese needs to have elasticity, but not be rubbery. Finally, we gravitate towards pies that don't require a stack of paper napkins to absorb grease.
To find this king of pies, we tasted a total of 20 frozen cheese pizzas (no other toppings allowed). The variations were nearly endless. Some were marketed as having a blend of three cheeses or more, several as healthy, a few were deep-dish or stone-fired, and at least five were all-natural or organic.
Methodology: In a blind taste test, seven judges compared he flavor and consistency (of the pizza crust, sauce, and cheese) and appearance of the pies one at a time. All pizzas were baked in the oven at the temperature and time indicated on the packaging. As usual, we ranked the pizzas according to the Epicurious four-fork rating system. One pizza stood out as our top pick, garnering three forks. Three others left us drooling, too.
Epi Top Pick: Amy's Cheese Pizza ($6.99 per 13 oz. pie)
Pros: "It was love at first sight and bite," declared one editor about our unanimous winner. This pie has a flavorful crisp outer crust that doesn't get too soggy in the middle. "It stands up to the sauce," said one taster. All agreed that there is an even proportion of sweet, fresh-tasting chunky tomato sauce and nicely chewy mozzarella cheese. Added bonus: Some of the ingredients, including the tomatoes and flour, are organic.
Cons: None, although nothing beats homemade.
Pros: We liked this pie's thick layer of white cheeses (two kinds of mozzarella, Fontina, smoked Gouda , and Romano), fresh-tasting chopped tomatoes, and subtle herb flavors. "The smokiness of the cheese makes me feel like I'm eating a homemade or gourmet pizza," commented one editor. "The crust is nice and chewy, like a warm dinner roll," said another taster.
Cons: Not recommended for lovers of tomato sauce (there is none) or crispy dough. Also not for the budget-conscious.
Pros: "Looks like an embellished version of the pizza you eat at a video arcade birthday party," said one taster. "Eating it makes me feel like a kid again!" The thick, fluffy crust has a slightly sweet accent, as does the intensely red, garlicky sauce.
Cons: The crust is doughy and this pie has an unbalanced cheese-to-sauce ratio (too much sauce). Especially for a 'za promoting four cheeses in its name.
Pros: Weighing in at 16.10 ounces, this pie is by far the largest and the least expensive per serving of the winners. All editors agreed that this is not your typical cheese pizza, thanks to an unexpected zing from cilantro and chili powder. One editor said, "The sweet BBQ flavoring adds a nice note to the blend of evenly melted, mildly smoky cheese." Not surprising, considering that this comes from Mexican food expert Rick Bayless. (Note: Although Bayless has been a blogger for Epicurious, the Frontera line of pizzas received no special consideration in our blind taste test.)
Cons: "Doesn't taste very Italian" proclaimed one taster. The spice factor was also a deal-breaker for some.
By Carolina Santos-Neves
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