Food

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

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Two Cookbooks for Meat Lovers: Beef and Lobel's Meat Bible

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Lest you think that I don't pay attention to cookbooks that are for aimed at carnivores, here are reviews (along with some recipes) for two titles that should satisfy meat lovers: John Torode's Beef: And Other Bovine Matters (The Taunton Press) and Lobel's Meat Bible (Chronicle Books) by Stanley, Evan, Mark, and David Lobel. 

There's a British sensibility that chef and restaurateur John Torode infuses into Beef. A dry sense of humor is helpful but not required. With a straightforward approach, Torode's straightforward focuses on simple, reliable recipes such as Beef Stock, Steak & Kidney Pudding, and Osso Buco. Curious about offal? There's a chapter dedicated to head-to-tail recipes with recipes such as Stuffed Beef Heart and Tripe Roman Style. But what I appreciated most about this book was the chef's willingness to demonstrate how to play up a number of basic beef recipes. You could just eat carpaccio as is, but for some variation, Torode presents eight different "fantastic toppings" (the author's words) from which to choose including Classic Cream Dressing, Pan-Grilled Radicchio, or Jalapeño, Mirin & Soy. Or need to dress up a steak? How about Onion Rings or Creamed Horseradish to go with it? The options are endless but it's the simplicity of the options that make it so appealing. Bonus: The cover transforms into a poster-size visual guide to beef.

Whereas Torode's book is decidedly minimalist in its approach to cooking as well as in its presentation, Lobel's Meat Bible is its American cousin: loquacious and showy. Each chapter opens up with a breakdown of different varieties and cuts of each meat but honestly, my eyes glazed over these particular sections. For beef, my head started spinning after reading about three types of steaks. But there were 20 other types of steak I hadn't yet read, and neither a photo nor illustration in sight to help me differentiate between them all. But don't let that deter you! The recipes and the big, glossy pictures of mouth-watering recipes make up for all that. You'll find a plethora of foreign-inspired recipes that should appeal to the increasingly international American palate: Yemenite Hot Pepper-Cilantro Sauce, Pampas-Style Stuffed, Rolled Flank Steak, and Chicken Pad Thai, as well as All-American recipes such as Chicken and Sausage Jambalaya and Chicken Wings. Like Torode, the Lobels give offal its own chapter, albeit, renamed as Variety Meats. Game Birds & Game covers exactly that, with recipes for quail, duck, and venison. If you've ever visited Lobel's of New York, then you're already familiar with the family-owned shop's high-quality meat offerings. And so it goes with Lobel's Meat Bible: one high-quality recipe after another.

Recipes to try from Lobel's Meat Bible:
- True Texas Chili
- Marinated Thai-Style Pork Spareribs

Recipes to try from Beef:
- Seared Beef Tenderloin with Thyme
- Tongue
- Sauce Gribiche


by Esther Sung

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