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Friday, July 4, 2008

How to Refinish a Find: Step-by-step instructions for sanding, priming and painting wood furniture





Taking an old piece of wooden furniture that's not terribly damaged and giving it a new lease on life with a little sanding, priming and painting is not as complicated as you might think. In fact, the process is rather simple and typically yields great results, as long as you adhere to some simple rules and pay attention to the process.






Tools You'll Need


  • Screwdriver (to remove any hardware from the furniture)
  • Drop cloth or some newspaper
  • Sandpaper sheets (five or more sheets each of rough, medium and fine; 80, 150 and 220 grit for instance)
  • Electric sander (it will save you lots of time)
  • Two fine synthetic brushes
  • Wood primer
  • Paint of choice


Prep

Before you undertake any type of furniture refinishing, always make sure you're not dealing with a valuable antique or heirloom. If you're confident it's not an original Ruhlmann, destined to land you big bucks at auction, then go ahead and move it into a well-ventilated workroom. Place a drop cloth or newspaper under the under the piece. Remove drawer pulls and other pieces of hardware.

Sanding

Begin sanding with the paper that has the roughest grit (probably a 60 or 80 grit-the grit is a number written on the back of the paper). Go over the piece once or twice to remove old paint, sanding in the direction of the grain when possible. Remember to periodically check the sandpaper you're using and replace it if worn. After one complete sanding, wipe residual dust off the piece with a damp cloth trying not get the wood too wet. Grab a piece of finer-grain sandpaper (e.g., move from a 60 to 150, eventually to a 220) and go over the piece again.

We must be honest—sanding can be time-consuming. If you're working on furniture with intricate detailing or one that has 25 coats of paint on it, you may want to consider having the piece professionally stripped—check the Yellow Pages for furniture refinishers in your area. It may cost you $100 or more, but the professionals will do the dirty work and all you'll have to do is prime and paint.

Priming

You apply primer just like paint—brush it on one coat at a time. Primer is important because paint settles better on primer than it does on bare wood; primer is the foundation. Brush on one coat of primer with a fine synthetic brush. Allow it to dry (should take an hour or two, but be sure to check the directions on the can). After drying, if the primer looks spotty or if dark spots from the wood show through, add another coat of primer. But before brushing on the second coat feel the first application; sand down any rough spots before the second coat of primer.

Painting

Once primer is dry, it is time to add a coat of paint. With a clean brush, apply a coat of paint, making sure to stroke in the direction of the grain when possible. Let dry. Sand lightly with very fine sandpaper. Add one more coat of paint and you should be done. Remember, two thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat of paint.

Extra Credit

If you think the piece needs more protection, try a topcoat or two of polyurethane. Be sure to follow directions on the can. Polyurethane will keep the painted piece looking fresh and new for years to come.


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Comments 1-8 of 8
  • annette's Avatar
    Posted by annette Wed May 14, 2008 2:54pm PDT

    Awsome!

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  • annette's Avatar
    Posted by annette Wed May 14, 2008 2:54pm PDT

    Awsome!

    Report Abuse
  • Darkness Always Prevails, Remember That's Avatar
    Posted by Darkness Always Prevails, Remember That Wed May 14, 2008 6:21pm PDT

    Great tips!

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  • Furniturebldr's Avatar
    Posted by Furniturebldr Thu May 15, 2008 9:46am PDT

    There are so many things that were left out of this posting, it's not even funny. They stated:

    Sanding

    Begin sanding with the paper that has the roughest grit (probably a 60 or 80 grit-the grit is a number written on the back of the paper).

    Wayyy to rough!! You shouldn't need to go below 100-120 grit.

    Go over the piece once or twice to remove old paint, sanding in the direction of the grain when possible.

    There should be no reason why you should sand in any other direction than with the grain. It can be almost impossible to get cross grain scratches out.

    Remember to periodically check the sandpaper you're using and replace it if worn. After one complete sanding, wipe residual dust off the piece with a damp cloth trying not get the wood too wet.

    Blowing off the piece with a compressor hose or if that isn't available to you, then use a tack cloth, which an be purchased from your local home center.

    Grab a piece of finer-grain sandpaper (e.g., move from a 60 to 150, eventually to a 220) and go over the piece again.

    The steps in refinishing are typically 120, 150-180 and then 220. 320 is used to sand inbetween coats of finish.

    One very important thing is to determine if you are sanding solid wood or a real wood veneer.

    Real wood veneer needs to be sanded very gently or you will do what's called "burning through it" which means you will expose the plywood below or the paper backer if it's a paperbacked veneer.

    Whenever stripping something, once you're done with the stripping process, immediately wipe it down with lacquer thinner to neutralize the acid in the stripper. If you don't, it can cause the finish to bubble or even peel. You MUST allow the piece of furniture to dry for at least 24 hours. Once dry, then you can sand it with 120 grit, "if needed, but I would start with 150. Once you're done sanding with each coat, make sure you get all of the dust off from the previous sanding because the dust can scratch the surface as you sand with your new grit of paper.

    In regard to using Polyurathane, it typically yellows, so a non-yellowing product or lacquer would be a better choice for a finish. I personally prefer oil based stains and finishes over water base.. In the professional world, waterbased products are rarely used.

    Hope this helps. There is too much to type out every step and thing you should know, so if you have any questions, just post back and I'll do my best to answer them.

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  • Furniturebldr's Avatar
    Posted by Furniturebldr Thu May 15, 2008 1:16pm PDT

    bump

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  • peaches's Avatar
    Posted by peaches Fri May 16, 2008 8:19pm PDT

    It sure is an aweful lot of work and time. Sounds nice but I lack the time to do all of that work.

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  • Furniturebldr's Avatar
    Posted by Furniturebldr Mon May 19, 2008 5:36am PDT

    If time is not on your side, then maybe a project like this isn't for you at this time. :)

    Report Abuse
  • WCSEG's Avatar
    Posted by WCSEG Wed May 21, 2008 11:22pm PDT

    love it

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Comments 1-8 of 8

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