There is no doubt that our textured hair needs moisture, and lots of it! But when color is introduced to the equation, our moisture levels must be supplemented with healthy doses of protein conditioning as well. Taking the steps to maintain proper moisture and protein balances within the hair shaft is important, particularly if you have color-treated your hair with anything other than a rinse. This article contains a sample regimen and simple tips you can follow to maintain the health of your new color-treated strands!
General Color Rules for Textured Tresses:
The Number 1 rule about coloring textured hair cannot be understated! Only color hair that is in tip top shape! Prep your hair a week in advance with a good protein and deep moisturizing treatment. Your color will take better and last much longer. You will also have created a barrier against potential damage from the coloring process. Before you color your hair, you should review the guidelines published in my article "5 Things to Consider Before Coloring your Hair." When you are certain that you are ready to proceed, or if you're already color-treated-- read on!Shampooing and Conditioning Color-Treated Hair Shampooing:
We'll start with your water. Do not insist on shampooing in HOT water. While it feels nice, the regular use of hot, hot water has a drying effect on the hair- colored or not. It also causes hair to let go of superficially deposited (newly deposited) color. Keep your water in the warm to cool range to avoid stripping your hair. Additionally, protect your hair from chlorinated water/salty water (pools, oceans, lakes), and ensure that the water coming in through your pipes is soft, and free of hard minerals.
Next, avoid shampoos that strip your hair of natural oils. These types of shampoos will pull color from your hair with continued use. Shampoos formulated for preserving your color are your best bet. These shampoos are a bit more acidic than other shampoos and will help seal your cuticle eliminating the rough, porous feeling so common to coloring. If you are already using a gentle, sulfate free shampoo for your weekly wash sessions- you should be okay! Keeping the shampooing at a minimum, at least the first few weeks out from a color job, will also be helpful.
The key is to keep the cuticle scales protected and smooth. For color-treated heads, harsh shampoos can cause abrasions along the cuticle which in addition to making your color appear dull, also cause breakage in the long run.
Conditioning: Each wash should be followed by a 20-30 minute conditioning with either a protein or moisture-based conditioner. Avoid heat styling (hooded dryer, included) on newly colored wet/damp hair. This tip is specifically important for the first 2 or so weeks following a new color job. Deep conditioning with heat is great for maximum moisture penetration, but for hair with newly deposited color, overzealous deep conditioning can steal color vibrancy!
The deep conditioning may be followed by an optional acid rinse of 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar to 2 cups water or a simple cold water rinse. An apple cider vinegar or cool water rinse should complete the process and allow for tighter closing of the hair cuticle.
Sample Color-Treated Care Regimen for Textured Hair
In the early weeks following your coloring episode, you will need to include a dedicated regimen of moisture and regular, supplemental protein. For best results, alternate protein-based conditioners with moisture-based conditioners regularly in your deep conditioning schedule to help fight moisture loss caused by increased porosity. Additionally, you will want to make sure that you have a good daily water-based moisturizer for moisture touch ups during the day. If needed, seal in your daily moisturizers with an oil for extra protection.The Color Care Kit: (You will need)
1- Chelating Shampoo -- PRIOR TO COLOR:
Rule #3 of the "Things to Consider Before Coloring " article suggests that you chelate your hair prior to your color application. Chelating simply involves selecting a shampoo that is specially formulated to lift mineral deposits and ions from the hair shaft and shampooing the hair as normal. This allows your hair color to deposit better.
(Product recommendations: Joico K-Pac Chelating Poo, Nexxus Aloe Rid, Kenra Clarifying (chelating formula and clarifier in one), L'anza Swim & Sun Daily Chelating Shampoo, Mizani Phormula 7 Neutralizing and Chelating Shampoo)
1- Moisturizing Shampoo (preferably for color-treated hair) *
1- Moisturizing Deep Conditioner *
1- Protein Reconstructor Conditioner *
2- Water-based moisturizer (one protein based (Profectiv and Cantu lines are excellent for protein!) AND one moisture based (Organic Root Stimulator products work well)
1- Oil *
* Product recommendations: I'm really big on Kenra's entire line for moisturizing products and Joico for protein-based products. However, you can locate a broader list of product recommendations in my General "Regimen Builder" article)
1.) For the first week following a color treatment, opt for a deep conditioning with a moisture based conditioner. Preferably, heat free. ** If your hair is feeling spongy or gummy, or you think your hair needs additional protein structuring, add a dollop of your favorite protein conditioner to this conditioning session.
2.) For week 2, opt for a deep conditioning with a protein based conditioner/reconstructor, followed by a brief 10 minute heat less conditioning with a moisturizing conditioner.
3.) Conditioning after week 3 should concentrate on your individual moisture and protein conditioning needs. Color-treating the hair requires more attention to your hair 's cues, and it is more important for those who are color-treated to alternate protein and moisture treatments on a more regular schedule. You can always mix protein and moisturizing treatments at any week to give your hair a personalized level of conditioning and treatment for you specific situation. As long as you are giving your hair both the needed protein and moisturizing components it needs, your color treated hair will thrive!
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