There are few people in fashion who know how to wear a hat better than Marina Muñoz. You need only glance at the countless street style snaps of the stylist with her elegant Argentine Gaucho style and Rapunzel braid for proof. Last summer, though, while pregnant with her now 14-month-old son, Blaise, Muñoz decided her signature look was in need of a transformation. "I was tired of being typecast as 'the hat girl,' because I think there's more to me than that. And as a new mom, I wanted to evolve my look and try something new, too," says Muñoz, who was inspired by model Daria Werbowy to chop her waist-length hair into a short bob. "Of course, I still love hats, but now I wear them differently."
Muñoz may be an extreme case study-but whether or not you plan on making a dramatic cut this season, the length and proportion of your hair is likely to have a major impact on your cold-weather hat profile.
See more: The Best Wedding Moments on Vogue.comCase in point: According to the stylist, beanies are not an option for hair that falls short of the jawline. "Unless it has a very rigid shape, it will engulf your whole head," she says. "Having something with a little volume and structure, like Wool and the Gang's chunky knitted hats, is much better." Her favorite new winter-warmer by far, though, is the beret. Sarah Brown, Vogue's Beauty Director, swears by the Parisian staple for her sleek blonde crop, too. "I don't want to look hairless, and it frames the face in a flattering way," she says. "It works with the tucked-behind-the-ear thing I have involuntarily fallen into as well. And then, of course, there's Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde."
As far as getting back into a dramatic fedora goes, Muñoz recommends a longer brim for short hair. "The more length in the brim, the more special it looks," she says. "I'll either slick the hair back or leave a longer strand peeking out."
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With her waist-length tresses, milliner Dani Griffiths can pull off just about any shape or size, but likes to keep all hairstyles in mind when she's designing for her New York-based label, Clyde. Options for curly hair tend to be more limited on the whole, although that didn't stop her from casting a girl with a cropped Afro for her spring collection last year. "We slicked her hair down and let the curls come out naturally just around the brim," she says. "It had a 1920s vibe to it that was really beautiful." She's found that brimless or partial brims tend to work best on short curly hair, while longer curls can be made to suit most hat shapes when worn to the side in a long plait. Bangs, on the other hand, work surprisingly well with a bowler or short brim. "Bangs can frame your face even more when there's a hat on top," she says.
No matter how thick or thin your mane, there is still one irritating style problem that plagues us all: namely, the dreaded hat hair. Griffiths's advice? First off, make sure your hair is completely dry before you put on a hat and you'll avoid the crease. She also encourages people to buy her designs a little oversized. "There's nothing worse than going to a nice dinner party and taking off your hat to reveal a dent on your forehead like the ghost of hat's past," she says. A trick worth sharing, indeed.