Fight Signs of Aging While You Sleep

Woman s Day
woman in pajamas washing face in bathroom sink
woman in pajamas washing face in bathroom sink

By

Alina Dizik

You may opt to kick off each morning with a complete skincare regimen. After all, you're applying sunscreen and makeup then. But you should save your anti-aging efforts for later in the day. "In the morning it's about protection; in the evening it's about reversal and rejuvenation," says Neil Sadick, Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College. That's because many anti-aging products work better at night when your body's at rest. Plus, cell turnover, when older skin cells shed off and leave skin glowing, increases at night, and certain ingredients take advantage of this biological process. Since overloading your skin with ingredients can irritate it, we've rounded up the eight best restorative ones to apply before bed. Alternate days on which you use creams with these ingredients, except where noted.Photo by Thinkstock

Retinoic Acid or Retinol

Retinoids increase collagen production, which helps diminish wrinkles, fine lines and discoloration. But the miracle ingredient is best to use before bedtime, says Ashley Magovern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist for Dermstore.com. "Retinoids can be degraded by sunlight, and they make you more sensitive to the sun," she says. Still, you should slather on sunscreen to protect your skin the morning after applying a Retinol cream. Start with a lower-dosage cream, and work up to a prescription-strength one if needed. But know that some women experience irritation from stronger doses, warns Magovern. Try: Roc Retinol Correxion Eye Cream, $21.49; Drugstore.com.
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Water

Skin loses water when you sleep, and not replenishing it can keep you from looking your best once you wake up. How to stay hydrated? Use a cream that lists water as the first or second ingredient and also has humectants, like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, to lock in moisture. "Be sure to drink water in addition to physically applying cream or washing your face," suggests Sadick. Or finish your nighttime cleansing process with a toning water spray. Try: La Roche-Posay Thermal Water Spray, $12.90; Laroche-Posay.us.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

A major player in any anti-aging arsenal, AHAs, including lactic and glycolic acid, exfoliate the skin and encourage the cell-renewal process. While plenty of day creams include AHAs, Sadick recommends using the ingredient once a week at night because the chemical compounds can be irritating. "But any redness from AHAs will most likely correct itself before you wake up," he says. Try: DCL AHA Glycolic Pads, $35; SkinDirect.com.
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Vitamin C

This immune-boosting vitamin is good for you in any form, including face cream. Vitamin C helps replenish nutrients and gives stressed skin a boost, but daytime pollutants can render the ingredient ineffective, says Suzanne Owen, owner of Relax & Rejuvenate, a spa at New York City's Eventi Hotel. "Skin at rest is better able to absorb Vitamin C than skin that's combating the environment, makeup and sunscreen during the day," explains Owen. Plus, just as vitamin C in your diet boosts collagen production so does vitamin C in topical form. And collagen smoothes out wrinkles.

Red or Green Tea

Tea extracts are some of the best antioxidants to protect skin against pollution and everyday stress. But you'll get better results in the evening "because skin is relaxed and less exposed to the damaging free radicals [like environmental pollution and ultraviolet rays] present during the day," says dermatologist Gary Goldfaden. Whether it's applied as an ingredient in a face cream or simply spritzed in liquid tea form on your face, green or red tea can also soothe tired, swollen eyes on their own-no extra products necessary.
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Peptides

Skin naturally focuses on cell renewal in the evening, and using peptides can further encourage cell turnover, says Owen. They're also more effective at increasing collagen production at night than during the day, she explains. Why else should you use a peptide cream in the evening instead of the morning? It can leave freshly cleansed skin feeling greasy and be difficult to wear under makeup.

Growth Factors

These proteins have been popping up a lot lately, and it's no wonder: They encourage cell turnover and help skin regenerate and heal. But the ingredient isn't ideal in daytime creams. "Growth factors can be inactivated by other ingredients [like those found in makeup and sunscreen], so it's better to use them at night when nothing else is on your skin," explains dermatologist Debra Jaliman, author of Skin Rules.
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Jojoba Oil

This ultra-hydrating oil takes hours to absorb, making it too greasy for daytime use. And by the time the next day rolls around, your sagging, tired skin will be refreshed, says Goldfaden. Another reason to wear it while you sleep: Your skin produces less oil at night, making it easier to absorb oil-based products. Even better, jojoba oil won't clog pores because it doesn't contain a triglyceride component like other oils.


Original article appeared on WomansDay.com.

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