While the rest of the world can't shut up about ramps right now, I find my thoughts attuned to rhubarb alone. Those slender, leggy pink stalks are the head-turners of the spring (asparagus, who?). Rhubarb reminds me of Jane Russell in Gentleman Prefer Blondes: worthy of the spotlight with her tart, smart bon mots, but crowded offstage by a sweet Marilyn Monroe-esque scene stealer: strawberries. Rhubarb deserves its due and with a few different dancing partners. Enter gin, grilled mackerel, red lentils, and other surprising couplings. She's ready for her close-up.