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    Save Our Skin

    Hannah Morrill and Judith Newman, Allure magazine

    When we think about our skin (and God knows we do), we think hopefully of descriptors like "radiant," "glowing," and "luminous." We generally don't think of a beefy bouncer at a nightclub. But in fact, that's what it is. Skin acts as a defense against the skanks and losers-er, bacteria and viruses; it keeps the undesirables out and the good guys in. Foreign chemicals, irritants? You're not on the list. Water? C'mon in. Or at least that's what skin is supposed to do. When this system breaks down, it's not only our looks that suffer; it's actually our health, too. That's why there is suddenly an explosion of interest in what dermatologists call "skin-barrier function"-the capability of the skin to perform its gatekeeping services effectively. There's increasing evidence, too, that a healthy barrier is essential for aging well.

    See more: The 6 Most Flattering Haircuts for Round Faces

    It's not just people with skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema who have to deal with a screwed-up skin barrier. Normal skin is subject to barrier disruption all the time: dryness in the winter. Sun and irritation from pool chemicals in the summer. When the barrier is damaged, we become more susceptible to a whole host of problems. More bacteria get in. Chronic inflammation can ensue. That can lead to impaired antioxidant defense and higher levels of free radicals, which can result in premature aging. And overall, when the skin is in a weakened state, many products will irritate it, precluding the use of some more powerful ingredients. Moreover, the simple fact of getting older makes the skin barrier slower at recovering from assault, says Peter M. Elias, a professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco and the author of Skin Barrier (Taylor and Francis). Add to that a lifetime of sun damage, if you're a tanner or a burner, and you've really got yourself a Situation.

    See more: Top 21 Drugstore Beauty Bargains

    Here's the unfortunate thing about damaging the skin barrier: We often do it ourselves. Many of us have skin-care rituals that tend toward the overzealous. If our skin routines were newscasters, they'd be less Brian Williams and more Glenn Beck. Changing routines (and perhaps some products) may not return you to the skin of your youth, but it could help make your skin worthy of glowing adjectives. Just watch out for these five common ways of preventing the skin barrier from doing its job.

    See more from Allure:
    The Top 14 New Summer Hair Ideas

    The 12 Best Eye Creams

    2012 Readers' Choice Awards
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    1. Photo by: CN Digital Studio

      UNDERMOISTURIZING

      Fat is your friend. No, really. We may not love fat, but our skin does. Fats, or lipids, in the outer layer of the skin-ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol-help protect the skin cells. Think of the skin cells as bricks and the fats as mortar, explains Zeichner. They also help retain moisture in the skin, making it plump.

      Yet what makes a good moisturizer is more complicated than just

      ... more 
      Photo by: CN Digital Studio

      UNDERMOISTURIZING

      Fat is your friend. No, really. We may not love fat, but our skin does. Fats, or lipids, in the outer layer of the skin-ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol-help protect the skin cells. Think of the skin cells as bricks and the fats as mortar, explains Zeichner. They also help retain moisture in the skin, making it plump.

      Yet what makes a good moisturizer is more complicated than just throwing in random fatty molecules. In fact, creams that combine mineral oil and paraffin can actually damage the skin barrier and increase water loss, Shamban says. Moisturizing ingredients tend to have a synergistic effect, and several ingredients together are required to optimize barrier recovery, according to a recent study by Marie Loden, a pharmacist at the Eviderm Institute in Sweden, published in Clinics of Dermatology. (It's sort of like the YouTube-documented effect of Diet Coke and Mentos. On their own they don't do much, but put them together and wheeee!) Moisturizers that contain humectants (compounds that attract and retain water) with small enough molecules to penetrate the skin easily, such as lactic acid, are often superior in treating dry skin compared with those that don't, Loden says.

      And here's some news that your grandmother could have taught you: Some of the cheapest moisturizing ingredients-petrolatum (Vaseline) and the humectants urea and gly

      less 

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