by Anne-Marie Guarnieri
Courtesy of ABL The French are extremely proud of their perfumery heritage--and for good reason (Chanel No. 5). But there's also a robust fragrance tradition being built right here in the U.S. of A., right now. Allow me to introduce you to three companies that are creating some captivating scents chez nous.
ABL Brands, New Jersey
Noteworthy scent: NO Eau de Parfum; spicy-sweet and mysterious, with lots of patchouli.
Whenever a bottle is sold, $10 goes to RAINN.org, which gives assistance to victims of sexual assault. "It was never in doubt that we would develop and blend our fragrances within our own studio. We can do small runs, try different blends, and use the retail store as our 'lab,'" says Anthony Artur, A Beautiful Life's president and nose. "One of our main inspirations is a Texas-based perfumer named Susan Owens, the creator of CHILD Perfume. Susan maintains personal control over her company, keeping it manageable when she probably could've cashed in ten times over. Her products have integrity. That's what we strive for."
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Demeter Fragrance Library, Pennsylvania Courtesy of Demeter
Noteworthy scent: Play-Doh; salty, sweet, bread-y. Yep, like many of Demeter's creations, it smells exactly like its namesake.
"While we have become a global business and use inspiration from throughout the world, our roots are firmly in American culture," says Mark Crames, owner of Demeter Fragrance Library. "The vast majority of our scents are inspired by daily American life, including a number of iconic American ideas, like Play-Doh, Tootsie Roll, and Apple Pie. Even our most iconic fragrance, Dirt, is uniquely American, inspired by the smell of the earth from our founder's Pennsylvania farm."
Courtesy of DS & DURGA
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DS & Durga, New York
Noteworthy scent: HYLNDS Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake; a flinty, spicy, cool, and woody scent that makes you want to go on an adventure.
"Figuring out how to make one's creations come to life can be very difficult for people without connections to the major perfume houses," says David Moltz, perfumer and cofounder of D.S. & Durga. "We operate like a pre-Industrial cottage industry--something that thrived for a long time in the U.S. The simple fact that you can start your own business is the quintessential American dream. We carry the American traits of innovation and reckless pioneering in our line."
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by Anne-Marie Guarnieri