Getty ImagesCelebrities are gourgois, just like you and me, but they have their little makeup issues too. As a longtime makeup artist to the stars and the creator of my own cosmetics line, Mally Beauty, I'm divulging the biggest makeup mistakes women make and how to avoid making them yourself.
Many women draw their eyeliner on too thick. It tends to make the eye look smaller and drag it down. What I'll do is line the upper inner rim of the eye, and then I go on the top of the lash line and deep down in between the lashes. I'll make a thin line across the lash line, and then put two coats of mascara. Then it's almost like an invisible eyeliner. This gives definition and makes the lashes look thicker, but it's not a heavy look.
Celebrity inspiration: I've done this on Beyonce.
The top mistake women make with their lashes is they put their mascara on and kind of wing it outwards. That actually makes your eye look more closed. When I put mascara on, I redirect the lash in towards the bridge of the nose. It looks crazy when you do it at first, but what it does is it opens up the eye and fans the lashes out and up, so you get a more open, awake look. It's almost like when you go to the hairstylist and they're blowing out your hair. He or she always blows your hair out against the roots, because that's what gives it volume. This is sort of doing the same thing with your lashes.
Celebrity inspiration: Jennifer Lopez loves this look.
Many people take shimmery bronzer and put it all over their face, like foundation. It makes you look like an orange disco ball! If you want a bronzer to look believable, you must always use a bronzer that is completely matte. And don't just slap it on like wall-to-wall carpeting! Concentrate on the hairline, the hollows of the cheeks, and on the jaw line. Then you can do a very light dusting all over the face. You also want to put a little bit of a pinky blush on the apples of your cheeks - that gives a believable bronze because it has that beautiful sun-kissed look.
Celebrity inspiration: Hayden Panittiere likes a bronzy glow.
Mally Roncal did Beyonce's makeup for Barack Obama's inauguration in January 2013Brows
Most women don't do their brows. They feel like it's too hard and are so afraid that they don't do it at all. This is a huge mistake, because you're not getting the benefit of what a brow does, which is lift your whole face, make you look 10 years younger, and make you look super healthy. And if they do groom their brows, they're stuck in that super-thin brow, or that over-plucking situation, or they'll have a heavy center and the tail is too thin. There are many brow faux pas. A fuller brow is much younger looking. When it comes to filling in, I feel a pencil is too hard and makes you look like Groucho Marx, but a powder is too soft and doesn't give you enough coverage. I believe in a combination of both for a natural look-shaping with a pencil, but filling in with a powder.
Celebrity inspiration: I've used this trick on Angelina Jolie.
People are starting to go a little bit crazy with highlighting powders and using them all over their faces. They're so desperate to get the glow that they're over-glowing and they look like the Tin Man from "The Wizard of Oz." Be strategic with your highlighting. A little bit on the high points of your cheekbones, your nose, the cupid's bow, your chin, and your brow bone should be it. Then step away from the highlighter.
Celebrity inspiration: Mariah Carey loves strategic highlighting.
A matte lip is popular and chic, but with dark colors it doesn't always look very healthy. I always say it makes your lips look like two little slivers of liver. Number one, you always want to line your lips so they look professionally done. Then you want to add a tiny bit of moisture to them, so dab on a little bit of gloss. You want it to look like a healthy lip.
Celebrity inspiration: I've used this trick on Rihanna.
When it comes to a smokey eye, you want to make it look soft and pretty like silk, not like two circles around your eyes. It's all about thin layers and blending with a brush. Let's say you're doing a soft plum smokey eye. First you want to start with an eyeshadow base, so shadows look professional and stay where you put them. Next, I like to take a light shade like champagne or rose gold and blend it all over from lash line to your eyebrow. Then you take a soft matte violet or lavender shadow and blend it all over your lid, from the lash line to the crease. Then take a deep purple and line the eye with it, top and bottom, and blend. Two coats of mascara on the top, one coat on the bottom. If you want to go for a dramatic smokey eye then you could also line the inner rim with black.
Celebrity inspiration: Heidi Klum loves rocking this smokey eye.
Concealer should only be a shade or two lighter than your skin tone. It shouldn't be too white since you don't want that reverse raccoon effect. I always put concealer first before foundation. If your skin is good, you might find you don't even need foundation.
Celebrity inspiration: I've done this on Taylor Swift.
People often match their foundation to their face. But sometimes our face, our neck, and our body are all different colors. I always say to check your foundation on your collarbone or even on your shoulder, because then it's going to match your body. If you're wearing a tank top or a T-shirt, you want the color of your foundation to match your body.
Translucent powder is the biggest lie. Translucent means clear, but the product is actually very white. If you look at an old picture and your skin on your body is beautiful and healthy and glowing, but your face is like Casper the Friendly Ghost, that's translucent powder. That said, you do need a finishing product to set your makeup and mattify shine. I have a product I created called the Face Defender and it's the first ever clear setting powder. It does everything translucent powder should do for you, but without the nasty side effects of making you look old, dry, and cakey.
Mally Roncal is a celebrity makeup artist with A-list clients like Beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna, and Taylor Swift. In addition to her own popular cosmetics line, Mally Beauty, Roncal has appeared as an expert on "The Today Show," "The View," "Rachael Ray," and "Oprah."
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