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    How to Make Meatballs Magnifico

    Pietro Criscuolo, chef-owner of Dongió in Milan, makes his meatballs quickly. Photo by Fred WoodwardPietro Criscuolo, chef-owner of Dongió in Milan, makes his meatballs quickly. Photo by …By GQ

    Pietro Criscuolo makes meatballs, he waits for nobody. Not even a reporter desperately trying to jot down his recipe. Criscuolo, 71, is standing in the middle of his family's Milan restaurant, Dongió, and is performing something of a meatball clinic.

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    He cracks two eggs onto a mound of ground beef, tosses in a few spoonfuls of bread crumbs, adds plenty of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a touch of salt, some more Parmigiano, a few more bread crumbs, and then kneads the mixture until all the ingredients are well integrated. Every now and then, he looks up at me, smiles with his big droopy eyes, and says something in Italian that I can't understand.

    I'm having enough trouble keeping up with him as he speedily rolls out about forty polpette. Although truthfully, there is not much to be confused about. As Pietro's son Antonio says in somewhat broken English, The simpler the recipe, the better the taste. And Pietro's recipe is indeed simple.

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    The secret lies in his using good meat and in dropping the polpette straight into the sauce without frying them first. This produces a tender, almost sweet meatball. Dongió, which Pietro has run since 1987 with his wife, Milena (who makes the pasta), his daughter, Monica (who handles the pastry chores), and Antonio (who runs the dining room), serves the polpette simply, of course-on a plate in a pool of red sauce. You can be a bit more daring, though, and try them with spaghetti or on a hero roll.

    Ingredients
    Makes about forty meatballs

    • 1 3/4 lbs ground sirloin
    • 2 eggs
    • 6 tablespoons finely ground bread crumbs
    • 6 heaping tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
    • 1 to 2 teaspoons salt
    • Pepper, freshly ground
    • 3 pints (or more) tomato sauce
    • 4 tablespoons olive oil

    Step 1

    Place the meat in a large bowl. Add the eggs, bread crumbs, cheese, salt, and pepper to taste. With your hands, knead the mixture until all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, about 1 minute. (You will probably need to make the polpette a few times to determine the amount of bread crumbs and cheese you prefer in the mixture.)

    Step 2
    Add the sauce (homemade or jarred; your call) and olive oil to a large pot.

    Step 3
    Form the meatballs so each is slightly smaller than a golf ball. Add to the sauce. Place the pot over a medium flame, bring to a simmer, then reduce heat and cook for 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from heat and keep covered or serve immediately. Remark to yourself how easy it all was.

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    52 comments

    • REALITY  •  7 months ago
      Where's the spices???????????????????/
    • dragon  •  7 months ago
      i make the best. m balls
    • anonanon  •  7 months ago
      Brown the meatballs in olive oil, garlic, and chopped onions. Scoop browned meat balls out and drop into sauce. Oh yes, use, Italian bread crumbs, egg, and cheece (parmigiana or parmesan cheese and ground meat for meatball
    • anonanon  •  7 months ago
      Brown the meatballs in olive oil, garlic, and chopped onions. Scoop browned meat balls out and drop into sauce. Oh yes, use, Italian bread crumbs, egg, and cheece (parmigiana or parmesan cheese and ground meat for meatball
    • dig'er  •  7 months ago
      molto benne
    • Bosoxinny  •  7 months ago
      Everyone has their own way of making meatballs. If there's one thing that I'm taking from this article, it is that I am now starving!
    • Bernadette  •  7 months ago
      Just tried these meatballs tonight- Delicious! All the kids and husband loved them just as the recipe was written. Tasted "not too bad for an Irish girl"!
    • Peg S  •  8 months ago
      my family loves meatballs w/ raisins! the first time I heard this I said yuk!!! but they do make the meatballs taste good and kids like them.
    • Stephen  •  8 months ago
      I also use sirloin, pork, and veal. But you HAVE to have onions and Italian parsley. Brown them in olive oil, drain them on a paper towel after, then put them in a pan with the sauce and cover it. Cook slowly for about 1/2 hour, and they come out delicious. I also make them a little larger, like my Sicilian grandmother did.
    • Vincent  •  8 months ago
      as soon as I saw he added bread crumbs I knew his meatballs suck. he should try bread soaked in milk, it keep the meatballs moist. that is what is done in most italian kitchens, but not in restaurants. but what do you expect he's from milan, my blood is from Abruzzi, Calitri, and Sciliy. try the bread soaked in milk, it's better
    • julia  •  8 months ago
      Love the writer's style and humor:D
    • JanPre  •  8 months ago
      Zodiac - if you use sirloin like he does, it won't be as greasy. That said, I was wondering where all the spices are - no galic or onions, fresh basil, oregano? I am willing to try this way for a change but coming from a family where my father was and Italian chef who's parent come from Italy and were also chefs...I am not too sure about this.
    • JanPre  •  8 months ago
      Zodiac - if you use sirloin like he does, it won't be as greasy. That said, I was wondering where all the spices are - no galic or onions, fresh basil, oregano? I am willing to try this way for a change but coming from a family where my father was and Italian chef who's parent come from Italy and were also chefs...I am not too sure about this.
    • Jeanne  •  8 months ago
      My mothers tip - using dried italian flavored bread crumb soaks up alot of moisture from the meat. If you find the meatballs a bit dry, add ice cold water to the meat mixture.
    • happy one  •  8 months ago
      You don't need eggs,you don't need bread crumbs. Use a good cheese, grated and toast pine nuts,smash um.Saute onion garlic and fresh Basil then add to meat.2/3 85/15 Beef,and 1/3 pork. Bake
      and brown in oven...remove from Fat add to San Marzano tomato sauce on low ,and cook for 2 1/2 -3 hrs stirring every 15 mi. with your favorite wooden spoon. Your house will smell wonderful and your family and guest will understand the meaning of life ! Salute from Pietro Antonio Paulo Tannura..........
    • happy one  •  8 months ago
      PS Golf Ball size ? If you can't 2 seam a fastball with one ...Don't even step up to the Plate. A meatball
      should be the main course,be proud and show it .
    • street rodder  •  8 months ago
      yes sugar brown to be exact it cuts the acid taste in the sauce only 2 tbs.also i like some chopped onion in my meatballs...meat,egg,bread crumbs,garlic,onion,basil,salt roll in flour fry in olive oil i do not put mine in the sauce i bake my spaghettee layer my ingreidents once i have cooked everything on the stove top it comes out great by putting it in the oven for about 30 minutes i don't care for mushy meatballs we like ours more solid.
    • Matt Helm  •  8 months ago
      Recipe is good, but do add a good amount of garlic to own taste, and, bake the meatballs for 20 mins, at 350, before adding to sauce, which will not dry out the meatballs, but will eliminate some of the unwanted fat. Let meatballs simmer in sauce, for about an hour, before serving over pasta, or on torpedo rolls. Bon Appetite!
    • A Yahoo! User  •  8 months ago
      I am so glad this article was posted! My grandmother's best friend was off the boat from Sicily, and this is the way she taught my grandmother to maker her meatballs, which, of course, was passed down to the family. They are so much more tender and flavorful this way, and it does not make the sauce greasy unless you are using low quality meat! You have to use at least 80/20, 90/10, etc. My brother and I even do it now with ground turkey and it is delicious!!!
    • charles  •  8 months ago
      This recipe sounds good to me, however my Mother has been doing it this way al her life, when you cook the meatballs in the sauce it Sicilanni, You can always put the meatball into a fryiny pan , olive oil and garic and fry for a few minutes then put into sauce. Charles Vespa

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