Not all Chardonnay wines are oaky, vanilla, or heavy. These five push fruit to the fore.
During the 1980s and 1990s, winemakers-especially those from California-went on an oak binge with their Chardonnays, making big, toasty wines by fermenting and aging them in wood barrels. Now, some of them are going back to the bare essentials, making food-friendly and fruity Chardonnays in traditional European concrete vats or modern stainless-steel tanks. The five below hail from around the world.
Four Vines Santa Barbara County Naked Chardonnay 2006
(about $13)
"Temperance, like chastity, is its own punishment," reads the logo of this cheeky Naked Chardonnay producer. Winemaker and owner Chris Tietje, a self-described hedonist, was a Boston chef before going west to man the grape presses of this Paso Robles winery, so he really understands food-friendly offerings. This Chardonnay was made in 100 percent stainless steel and is a slightly sweet, very orange-juicy, wine, which also has flavors of papaya and melon.
Seafood Recipe Pairing:
Spicy Grilled Shrimp with Rice and Mango Salad
Chardonnay normally doesn't excel with Asian foods, but this wine's sweetness, and tropical flavors, pair well with this dish.
Vegetarian Recipe Pairing:
Panfried Tofu with Chinese Black Bean Sauce
This is a big wine with a touch of sweetness, so it can stand up to the recipe's fragrant notes (ginger, maple syrup, Sherry) and tofu crust's toastiness.
The Wishing Tree Western Australia Unoaked Chardonnay 2007
(about $13)
Proprietor John Larchet imports only Australian wines, but he also likes to get down under by making his own brands, including The Wishing Tree, which uses grapes from the western part of the continent. This is a supple, yet firm wine with big apple flavors-full, tart, and refreshing.
Fresh Fish Recipe Pairing:
Trout with Pecan and Pine Nut Crust
The toasted nuts in the crust are the perfect complement to the apples of the wine, and baked-fish flavors are always a good Chardonnay match.
Vegetarian Recipe Pairing:
Risotto Primavera
The apple notes of this wine tempers the creaminess of the rice, cheese, and broth. Remember to substitute vegetable broth for the chicken to keep it vegetarian.
Alpha Domus Hawke's Bay Unoaked Chardonnay 2006
(about $14)
The Ham family moved from Holland to Hawke's Bay on New Zealand 's North Island to grow flowers and fruits. In the 1990s, they added vineyards and winemaking to their repertoire with great results. This Chardonnay gets its complexity from lees (sediment) stirring, which involves allowing fermented wine to linger amid yeast cells and tiny bits of skin and pulp. The result is a lively blend of pineapples and pears with a richness that is nonetheless dry.
Poultry Recipe Pairing:
Roast Quail with Cranberry Madeira Sauce
The quail is delicate enough not to overpower the wine, and the cranberries are a good match for the pineapples and pears.
Vegetarian Recipe Pairing:
Asparagus and Gruyère Tart
White pizzas and cheese tarts are always Chardonnay pleasers, and the acidity in the wine balances the green notes of the asparagus.
Louis Michel & Fils Chablis 2006
(about $28)
Chablis-a wine region of northern Burgundy-is famous for its limestone and clay soils that bring out the best in the Chardonnay grape. Domaine Louis Michel's winemaker, fils Jean-Loup Michel, doesn't like to use oak and is a fanatic about temperature control during a wine's fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. This wine has light citrus and minerally, chalky flavors in the beginning, with a finish of green and mellow apples.
Seafood Recipe Pairing:
Grilled Scallop "Ceviche"
The wine pairs well with the plump scallops in this faux ceviche (it's cooked), and its acidity works equally well with the dish's citrus flavors.
Vegetarian Recipe Pairing:
Classic Cheese Soufflé
Creamy soufflés tend to quickly unravel a wine's acidity, but this bottle can handle it-plus its chalky flavors blend right in.
Mer Soleil "Silver" Santa Lucia Highlands Unoaked Chardonnay 2006
(about $35)
The Wagner family, which also produces Caymus and Conundrum wines, started with grapes from the western hills of Monterey County in California and slowly fermented those grapes in limestone-based cement tanks made in Burgundy, the traditional home of Chardonnay. The resulting wine shows the lush tropical-fruit flavors of the region along with a creaminess, bright acidity, and touches of tonic-water bitters that last on the palate long after the wine is gone.
Poultry Recipe Pairing:
Cuban-Style Grilled Mojo Chicken with Greens, Avocados, and Mangoes
This is a big, complex wine that perfectly matches the dish's lush, tropical flavors.
Vegetarian Recipe Pairing:
Olive Oil Couscous Cake with Date Syrup
Although this isn't a dessert wine, it is rich and will stand up to this dish's Mediterranean flavors-use the date syrup sparingly.
Roger Morris writes about wine, food, and travel for a variety of publications including Robb Report, Beverage Media, Saveur, and The Wine Enthusiast.
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