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    Use a Pan Instead of a Pot and 9 Other Surprising Steps to Perfect Pasta

    Pasta with Sun Gold TomatoesPasta with Sun Gold TomatoesBy Oliver Strand, Bon Appétit

    The BA Pasta Manifesto


    1. Forget the pot. Use a pan.
    Ever notice that the pasta you get at top-flight restaurants is different from what you make at home? It's glossy and luxurious, each strand of pasta coated with sauce. The key to pasta this transcendent is a sauté pan. That's what the pros use to cook almost-done pasta and sauce together-until there's pomodoro clinging to every bite of bucatini, until each raviolo is lacquered with sage-flecked brown butter. It's a unified, flavor-packed dish, not a bowl of noodles with a bunch of sauce dumped on top. To make your own restaurant-worthy pasta, grab a sauté pan (use one that's either 10" or 12" in diameter) and get started.

    2. Build the Foundation. At its most basic, a pasta sauce requires just a handful of ingredients and 20 minutes of cooking time. To make a classic pan sauce, heat olive oil, sauté garlic, add a vegetable or two and then-here's the important part-a generous amount of pasta water. The starchy water and oil simmer together, forming the foundation of a sauce. We love a long-simmered ragu, but this is the technique we return to again and again.

    Related: Bon Appetit's Favorite Pasta Recipes

    3. You're not using nearly enough salt. Add a small handful of kosher salt to a pot of boiling water, then drop in the pasta. The noodles absorb water as they cook, so you're actually seasoning the interior of an otherwise bland starch. Mark Ladner, executive chef at Del Posto in New York City, says the water should taste "almost as salty as seawater." For Ladner, that's about 1 Tbsp. salt for every quart of water, but you don't have to be so particular-just throw it in there.

    4. Don't dump the pasta water. Starchy, salty pasta water is the secret ingredient in most sauces. Scoop out some of the cloudy water (it's supposed to look like that) with a coffee mug or measuring cup, and pour a few splashes into the sauce. Save the rest; you might need more than you'd expect. Then simmer until the water and oil emulsify and begin to form a slightly creamy sauce. It's a little like deglazing a pan with stock or wine, a simple step that gives a dish body and flavor.

    5. Trust the Tongs. While the pasta is cooking, grab a pair of basic metal tongs (12" ones are best for pasta prep). They are an indispensable tool: Use them to pick up a noodle to test for doneness, to transfer long noodles from pot to pan, to toss noodles in sauce, and, finally, to plate it all beautifully.

    6. Now work that pan. It's where the magic happens. Bringing it all together in the pan is as easy as it is important. Undercook the pasta by about two minutes (you should see just a hint of white when you bite into a piece) and finish cooking it in the sauce's flavorful liquid. To coat the pasta with sauce, try some fancy restaurant fry-pan flips. Or, if you don't feel like cleaning the range after dinner, use tongs as if you're tossing a salad until the pasta is completely coated. Keep an eye on the sauce: Is it too tight? Remove it from the heat and add a bit more pasta water. Too brothy? Let it cook 20 seconds longer. Just remember that the pasta will continue to absorb the liquid and the sauce will thicken off the heat: What's loose in the pan will firm up in the bowl.

    See Also: The Best Meatless Main Courses

    7. Everything's Better with butter. The other secret to rich, silky sauces is extra fat-and yes, all the restaurants use it. "I finish the pasta with a little bit of olive oil, butter, or both," says Andrew Carmellini of New York City's Locanda Verde. "In Italian it's called mantecare, which means 'to make creamy.' " He adds cold butter to the pasta and sauce in the pan, off the heat, to give it an unctuous texture.

    8. Cheese is not just a garnish. Whether you know it or not, restaurants enrich pasta sauces with cheese even before grating it tableside. When a little bit is added to the sauce, it melts and becomes a binder, a stealth ingredient that lends texture and flavor. Here are three simple steps to getting the most out of it: Skip pre-grated cheese. It's more expensive and it doesn't taste as good. Grate it finely so it'll melt easily into the sauce. You're making pasta, not a quesadilla. Think beyond Parmesan. Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo, of New York City's Frankies Spuntino, use Pecorino, a sheep's-milk cheese with a tangy bite. "It has a stronger flavor," Castronovo says, "so we use less of it in the food."

    9. It should looks as good as it tastes. Like a wineglass, a well-designed pasta bowl not only makes for beautiful presentation but also serves a purpose. A broad bowl with high sides keeps food warm (especially if you heat the bowl in an oven first), and a white one makes the colors in the sauce pop. We like Crate & Barrel's Bistro Large Bowl ($7; crateandbarrel.com). Use your trusty tongs for plating. "It should look like a bird's nest," says Thomas McNaughton, executive chef at San Francisco's Flour + Water. To get the look, twirl the pasta, lift it out of the pan, lower it into the bowl, then re-twirl.

    10. Practice Makes Perfect Now that you've learned the principles of great pasta, practice the technique on these four classic recipes.

    Get the Recipe for the Pasta Pictured Here


    More from Bon Appétit:

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    249 comments

    • annie  •  1 year 0 months ago
      Way too much salt. Restaurants poison their food with far too much salt - most of it is simply unpalatable anymore. Otherwise, any Italian homemaker could have written this article. But pasta should be cooked in a pot. Especially if you have an Italian-sized guest list. And homemade Italian puts restaurant chefs - including the "tops" - to shame. (Dontcha know that's why Mario has visited nonnas across Italy?!)
    • Observer  •  1 year 0 months ago
      Did someone say sauce? Here's my veggie version.Meat can be added, too, but I don't bother.

      Saute several thinly sliced garlic cloves in olive oil in the bottom of the pot, add 2 cans crushed tomatoes, one can tomato paste, and when it begins to boil turn it down and toss in 5 or 6 carrots (yes, carrots!) diced small, 2 zucchini diced, 1 fat Vidalia or other sweet onion, 1 red and 1 green pepper (or whatever color moves you) diced, and do not saute the vegetables first! Fresh herbs should be added later in cooking, dried can be added sooner. Rosemary, oregano, basil, thyme, a little tarragon. Season by taste... measuring is for sissies. When it's simmering steadily, stir in a cup or so of grated Asiago cheese. To cut the acid, I use honey instead of sugar but that's just what I'm used to.

      Turn it down to bubble bubble toil and trouble level, cover, and let it do its thing for 2 or 3 hours, stirring to keep things cooking evenly. Anyone who says a really good pasta sauce takes 20 minutes is a mental case.

      You'll find your sauce cooks down and you end up with less than you started with. When you feel it's done sufficiently... acidity and seasoning just right for you, veggies tender but not completely mushed, DO NOT SUCCUMB TO TEMPTATION. Let it cool, then stick it in the fridge at least overnight. You will not regret it!
    • water  •  1 year 0 months ago
      I have to laugh at the multitudes of comments along the lines of "my mother/grandmother/friend's mom, etc came from Italy so they know what's right". Maybe, in fact they do, but just coming from Italy doesn't make one a good cook. There are plenty of terrible cooks who hail from everywhere, Italy included. Just because nonna/mom/whoever makes pasta one way doesn't mean it's the right way or the way all Italians do it. Try asking a bunch of different women from Italy for their family ragu or bolognese recipe. They will all be similar, but never the same. You'll get different answers about oil and salt in the water as well. THAT is what makes Italian cooking great/gives it charm. It's personal and special, and you may think your mom's is the best, but you don't need to convince the whole world of it (hey, they have moms with the best too)
    • Gabe N  •  1 year 0 months ago
      is it me or did he not add tomato sauce in that recipe. you just add a couple of veggies sounds like a bad recipe to me
    • Sassygrl  •  11 months ago
      I tried these pasta cooking ideas and "voila" the sauce stuck to the pasta. I never would have guessed. Will cook pasta this way from now on!
    • nicole  •  1 year 0 months ago
      Uhhh is everyone living under a rock? These tips I've heard them all before a hundred times. If you've ever watched a cooking show in your entire lives you'd know this.
      You need to salt the water people. Test out both ways, with salt and without and you'll notice the difference. I once had no salt in the house and cooked without it and was absolutely repulsed with the pasta. It's the only chance you have to flavor the pasta itself. everything else you could give or take away I guess but to me every tip is common and used by chefs everywhere. But salting the water is the oldest trick in the book. I'm obviously frustrated by most of you.
    • lovesnyfood  •  1 year 0 months ago
      I would also mention that I have not used pasta water to thicken red sauce, but rather to thicken simple sauces made with veggies, beans, garlic etc. that need a little extra saucyness. It's a cost effective way to thicken your sauce without adding alot of fat or calories, kinda like adding a little constarch and water to a stir fry.
    • Harold  •  1 year 0 months ago
      dont rinse in a pot with the broth after done add your cooked hambuger garlic (a lot) tomato sause sea salt to taste pepper mushrooms thats the old way its good can add bell pepper if want to chopped
    • lovesnyfood  •  1 year 0 months ago
      I think these are all good suggestions. I've worked as a line cook with several Italian-Americans, and this article mentions all the things I was taught to do. We did cook our red sauce for a long time, starting it off with a little meat, or fatback, and saute the onions and garlic in it first, before adding tomatoes. I would point out that pasta dishes are finished off in a saute pan at a restaurant because the pasta is pre cooked, and that's to heat it up. For those of you worried about extra calories or sodium with these suggestion, keep in mind that Italians don't eat the same portion sizes that we are accustomed to. It's all about moderation. PS The pasta water thing is really a great trick to thicken up your sauce.
    • Chico J  •  1 year 0 months ago
      Forgot the number one tip. Wait until the water is boiling really hard before putting the pasta in and don't overcook the pasta. It's the number one mistake people make.
    • william m  •  1 year 0 months ago
      Omg this sounds very dangerous to my recently aquired low carb lifestyle ={
    • Douglas  •  1 year 0 months ago
      most of the recommendations seem good (heck, a lot of them seem obvious, but I do this a bit) but the salt and butter? really? First off, I only use the salt to increase the water heat, so I use maybe half of what they recommend, tops. I also stay away from butter. Olive oil is healthier and usually makes a dish tase much better.
      I use whole wheat pasta, but some people don't like the taste. It also doesn't absorb as much liquid, but has more mouth feel and is healthier. Just my thoughts.
    • Bekker  •  1 year 0 months ago
      step one....no pot....add salt to pot....really dumb-ass article
    • SON OF YHWH !  •  1 year 0 months ago
      .

      .......NO RINSE !

      .
    • Rkay  •  1 year 0 months ago
      I doubt most folks cook like this. Pretty weird. Plus the butter sounds too rich for my blood. I'll stick with a good red sauce, with olive oil and garlic....
    • David  •  1 year 0 months ago
      This guys an Idiot....
    • JoJo  •  1 year 0 months ago
      I agree with Tim, don't rinse the pasta. Pasta that is not rinsed carries the sauce better. So they say, lol
    • Sabrina  •  1 year 0 months ago
      "It should looks as good as it tastes"?
    • Taz  •  1 year 0 months ago
      why put water on sauce? it should all be tomato sauce and no single drop of water.. adding water is not good. if you can eat all the pasta then dont rinse it, but if you think there will leftovers than rinse it.
    • Observer  •  1 year 0 months ago
      Pasta is not meant to be "coated" with sauce. Stop eating at Olive Garden.

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