Confessions of a Bra Fitter

Emily Hsieh, Allure magazine

An Interview With Rebecca Apsan

Apsan is the owner of the New York City lingerie shop La Petite Coquette.

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Most women wear cups that are too small and bands that are too big. That combination ruins your silhouette and can make the finest clothes look ill-fitting. Recently, I saw a woman whose bra band was practically at the top of her shoulder blades. Her breasts were really low and spilling over the cups. She said she was a 36D, but she was actually a 32F-and when she left, guess what? Her body looked about two sizes smaller. With the right fit, your nipples should sit halfway between your elbow and your shoulder. This can often be achieved by adjusting the straps. If your breasts still aren't lining up, it's time to get resized. You should be fitted every other year or when you've lost or gained ten pounds. Just remember that you could be a B in one brand and a C in another.

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I almost always prefer a contoured bra over a padded one. The former has a thin layer of memory foam that gives a beautifully rounded shape. Small-chested women think they have to wear a lot of padding, but that usually makes the breasts look unnatural. No matter your size, an underwire is the best way to get a perky look. Leave the flimsy bralets to the 17-year-olds.

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The only thing that bothers me more than a woman wearing the wrong size is when she treats her bras as if they don't matter. I see women in Chanel suits with raggedy bras underneath. If you rotate your bras daily and wash them by hand after every couple of wears, they can last a decade.

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