You Might Be Missing the Point of Normcore

By Andrew D. Luecke

More than a week after breaking on The Cut, people everywhere are still talking about normcore. There's been an enormous discussion about what normcore is and what it isn't, with most commentators missing the point. Though Esquire is not going to advocate that you start dressing normcore, we only think it's fair to clear up confusion, explain the style's intricacies, and let the readers decide for themselves.

Perhaps due to a naming kerfuffle in the original piece that conflated a cultural phenomena with what's really a fashion trend, many assume that normcore is simply throwing on whatever Seinfeld jeans and turtleneck are around and rolling into Le Bain to kill it. Do that and ensure an embarrassing public bitch slap from the doorman.

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Normcore is a fashion trend, pure and simple, and like most fashion trends it's a riposte to the styles that came before it. In this case, normcore is flipping the bird to hipsters, with their entrenched slim, dark denim infatuation and rocker affectations. Normcore instead draws on hipster kryptonite, like technical outdoor gear, prep school hippy Birkenstocks, and substitute teacher-style denim, to achieve a subversive look detectable only to those in the know.

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As with any outfit, the primary elements of normcore are fit, color, and texture, all of which must match both normcore's looser silhouette while suiting the wearer's body. Want to wear dad jeans? Ok, well get them right with the proper high rise, a light wash that bears some natural wear, and straight fit that's trim enough to hint at your true frame. Want a polar fleece? A simple L.L. Bean piece might not be enough. Instead you're going to want a textured Patagonia synchilla, perhaps even with a dot or southwestern print for extra effect. Want sandals? Birkenstocks will work, but better to turn your attention to Givenchy's recent floral take on orthopedic German footwear, to make sure those cool girls breezing by the line at Le Bain see that you know what's up.

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Like normcore or not (full disclosure - this editor likes it), but know what you're dealing with before dismissing it, or fearing that the cool kids will steal your (anti) swag.

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