The Perfect Bra: How to Find it Once and for All

Countless talk show segments and articles claim women aren't wearing their correct bra size, but that can't possibly be you, right? You've worn the same size for years! Well, a new study conducted by Triumph, a Swiss lingerie company, surveyed 100,000 women and found that 64 percent are in fact wearing the wrong size bra, and 29 percent of them know they're wearing the wrong size. Women's Wear Daily, who reported the study, said 73 percent of women also felt that poorly-fitting bras are enough to ruin their whole day.

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This is unfortunate news, especially since it's so easy for women to go in and get a bra fitting for free at their local lingerie retailer. But there is one catch: not all brands and styles fit the same way. With Valentine's Day around the corner and many women on the hunt for special undergarments, we enlisted Jene Luciani, a style and bra expert and author of "The Bra Book," for tips to ensure you are wearing the best, most flattering bra possible.

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In your experience, would you agree that 64 percent of women are wearing the wrong bra size?
Through my research I think this number is more like 85 to 90 percent! It's important for women to be educated consumers when it comes to bras. The biggest complaint I hear from women who go to bra specialty stores is that the fitters don't tell them what they're doing. They just try to upsell and make shoppers reliant on them so they keep coming back. I wrote "The Bra Book" so women could get educated first and have fun with it too.

Are certain styles of bras dramatically better for different shapes and sizes of breasts?
Absolutely. Most women have their favorite style of bra, but it's important for women to really shop for bras based on their body shape and their breast volume and shape. We want comfort too, so that all has to be factored in. Most fuller busted women with large, heavier breasts might not opt for a padded push-up T-shirt bra-that's just going to make them appear larger. Women who have more "bottom volume" to their breasts do need a push-up of some sort, but they may want a lace style with an underwire as opposed to a molded cup t-shirt bra that's going to possibly give them gaping at the top. It's all about trial and error.

We always hear that expensive is better. Can women find great fitting bras on a budget?
My biggest recommendation is to go to a store with a large selection. Stores like Marshalls and T.J.Maxx are great choices because they carry a variety of really high quality and brand name lingerie at amazing prices. With bras, you do get what you pay for, so you want to buy quality, but that in no way means you have to go to a specialty shop and spend $100 on a bra. We need to switch out our bras at least once a year due to wear and tear, so trust me, you will feel a lot better doing that when you've spent less on a bra without sacrificing quality.

How can you tell if you're wearing the wrong cup size?
The underwire beneath the cups should not be riding up or digging into breast tissue. This could mean that you need a larger cup size or the band size is too big causing the bra to shift around on your body. The bridge, which is the center piece between the two cups, should lie completely flush against your ribcage. If it is extended away from your body, you likely need a larger cup size and/or a different style bra.

What can you do if your bra cups are are too loose at the top or, conversely, creating the dreaded double boobs?
If you're getting spillage, you may just need to opt for a fuller coverage bra or different style (or possibly a larger cup size). Double boobs often happen when the cup is a demi style and the woman has fuller breasts and just needs the cups to come up a little higher. Or, the bra is too small.

How tight should the band be, and which hook are you supposed to use?
Ideally, you can use the middle hook so you have a place to go when, for example, you have your period and your breasts are a little larger you can switch to loosest hook. Or, if your bra is starting to stretch out but it's too soon to toss, then switch to tightest hook.

What does it mean if the band keeps riding up in the back?
This could mean a couple of things. For women who have very large heavy breasts, it could simply be the weight of their breasts. It could also mean that you are wearing a band that's too big. When it's fitting properly, it should lie horizontally across your back. Also check your straps-if they are adjusted too tightly it could cause the band to ride up.

What about if the straps are too loose or too tight?
They're too loose, they either could be getting stretched out from wear and washing, or the band size is too big. If they're digging in, you may need to adjust them or you may need to look for cushion straps or something with a higher comfort level.

Speaking of comfort, who can get away with wearing bras without underwire?
A smaller to average size bust woman-like a C cup and lower-can likely get away without an underwire, but should look for a bra with a band or some structure to the cups for extra support. I fully believe in underwire for everyone.

We've heard before that a 34C is about the same as 36B, and so on. Is this true?

Yes. Bra sizes are based on volume and the number works with the letter, not independently to one another. Therefore, if you go down in the band and up in the cup, you generally get the same size bra. However, there is no consistency in brands with their fit models so you could be five different sizes in five different bras. It's trial and error at the stores, and sizing is only meant as a guideline.

How often should you wear bras before washing?
They should be washed between every use! The dirt and oils in our skin really break down the elasticity in the fabric, causing them to wear out faster.

Lastly, how do you know when your bra has worn out?

There are lots of signs to tell such as tearing or shredding, stretching out of cups or straps, bending of underwire, and just not fitting right anymore. Then it's time to toss.

For more tips on undergarments, check out the video below:

Related links:
The Most Flattering Lingerie for Your Body Type
Finding the perfect bra size

Your Ultimate Bra-Shopping Guide