Style.com's backstage confidential: Alberta Ferretti fall ‘08

The Inside Scoop on Runway Beauty

Kohl-rimmed eyes, pale pink lips, and subtly bouffant 'dos had the models at Alberta Ferretti looking like latter-day dolly birds.


Be Cool

The trapeze-shaped frocks in luxe jewel tones on Alberta Ferretti's Fall runway were the designer's way of capturing what she calls "the nonchalance of women today." To complement her vision, makeup artist Peter Philips and hairstylist Guido Palau dreamed up a modern version of a sixties look that was both put-together and laid-back.








Back to the Future

"It's a watered-down sixties look," said Peter Philips of the heavily lined eyes and pale lips he created for Ferretti's Fall collection. "But it's less refined and more rock 'n' roll than Brigitte Bardot." He began by perfecting the models' skin with Chanel Pro Lumière Professional Finish Makeup SPF 15, an oil-free base that lends a semi-matte finish to complexions. Instead of blush, he applied a highlighter to temples and cheekbones "to give the skin dimension without contouring."







Flawless

Philips lined top and bottom lashes with Chanel Le Crayon Kohl Intense Eye Pencil in Black before blending Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eyeshadows in Ebony and Mahogany from lash line to crease. Next, he brushed on Chanel Inimitable Waterproof Mascara Multi-Dimensionnel in Black, a multipurpose eye enhancer that volumizes, lengthens, curls, and separates lashes with each stroke. The models' mouths were daubed with foundation instead of color. "It gave the lips a uniform tone that was neither too pink nor too pearly," he said. (For a look that's more real world than runway, Philips recommends using beige lip color on lips and adding a peach-hued blush to give cheeks more life.)




Easy Breezy

Palau 's side-swept, slightly teased 'dos were similarly retro-inspired. "The look was really feminine," he said. "Very soft, very light, and quite young and fresh, but the little tease we did at the crown gave the girls a sexiness." First, he applied Redken Straight 05 Straightening Balm, a heat-protective, humidity-resistant styling cream, to damp hair. Next, he blew the hair dry, using his fingers instead of a brush to infuse it with more natural texture.







Pretty Tease

After blow-drying, Palau made a center part, then sectioned out a small portion of hair at the crown. Using a small flat-bristle brush, he back-combed the section to give it height and misted it with Redken Quick Dry 18 Instant Finishing Spray, a fast-drying, shine-infused spritz that locks styles in place. A single bobby pin inserted at brow level kept the hair out of the face. "The tease at the crown gives a little bit of polish to something that seems so effortless and light," he said. "For nighttime, though, try roughly pinning the sides into the back, or pinning the back up but leaving strands out for a softer, more romantic feel and something that seems a little more 'done.'







Chanel Inimitable Waterproof Mascara Multi-Dimensionnel in Noir

Price: $27.50

Available at www.chanel.com.








Chanel Le Crayon Kohl in Noir

Price: $26.50

Available at www.chanel.com.










Redken Straight 05 Straightening Balm

Price: $14.95

Available at salons. For locations, see www.redken.com.











By Jennifer Laing
Runway Images by Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse
Beauty Images by Nicola Kast



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