Do Different Types of Shampoo and Conditioner Actually Work?

My mother's hair is coarse and curly, mine is fine and straight: if we switched our favorite shampoo and conditioner, would one of us end up looking like the Bride of Frankenstein? A walk down the aisle of any drugstore yields a head-spinning array of hair care choices. There are anti-frizz solutions, promises of diamond-like shine, formulas for every type of hair from pizza-greasy to old hay, not to mention a veritable Carnival cruise buffet table of fruit, vegetable, protein, and herbal additives.

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It's easy to be skeptical about all the claims on the labels, but Zoe Draelos, MD, a practicing dermatologist, author, and expert on the safety and efficacy of over-the-counter cosmetics, tells Yahoo Shine, "There is a lot of sophisticated science that goes into research and development." She describes how major hair care companies have large climate controlled rooms where they hang "1000s of tresses of cut human hair" to test different shampoo, conditioner, and other products to see how they will hold up to diverse conditions on different types of hair. "Products are developed for certain types of hair; the ingredients on the label might look similar but the concentrations are different. For example, "If you coat fine hair with conditioner that's too thick, it will appear oily, won't hold a curl, and look lifeless and dull." Instead, you need a thinner formula to reduce static electricity.

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Independent cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson agrees: "They do actually work," she tells Yahoo Shine. For instance, she says that a light volumizer for fine hair "wouldn't even put a dent in the treatment needs of those with very thick, curly hair."

It's not just the individual products, though, it's how you use them. "You have to follow the directions on the label," says Joe Murray, the owner of Hale, an environmentally friendly salon in Manhattan tells Yahoo Shine. He also recommends trying a product for a couple of weeks to see how it performs for you. "You might have to buy a few different brands of the same type of shampoo or conditioner to find the one that works best. Purchase the smallest size." Travel sizes are ideal, and many companies are making airplane-friendly smaller bottles.

He also points out that people tend to over-shampoo and then end up reaching for a conditioner that is too heavy for their hair type to counteract dryness. "Concentrate the shampoo on your scalp," in order to cut down on oiliness without stripping the hair shaft, he says. "Then, work in the conditioner from the ends up, coating the shaft but not your scalp."

To find an appropriate product, consider how oily your scalp is, how thick your hair is, the texture of the individual shafts, and whether or not you have dandruff. With the hundreds of choices available nowadays, you can probably find the right combination of products to tackle all your needs. One other consideration: the sun. "Hair requires protection, just like skin," says Draelos, who adds that solar rays can damage your hair's protein and fade the color. Wear a hat outdoors or use a conditioner containing sunscreen, especially in during the warmer months.

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