Nearly three decades have passed since Esquire published its first annual list of the Best New Restaurants of the Year. Sweeping trends in the restaurant world have come and gone, but this year has been unlike any other: In place of one trend, there are a whole bunch - and not just trends but also new ideas and personalities and ingredients and entirely novel kinds of cuisine bouncing around every city we visited. We've organized our list accordingly, showing how each restaurant fits into a larger phenomenon in the world of eating out. So get eating. It's a big, exciting, delicious country out there.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 3 tbsp sea salt and cook 1 lb spaghetti. Move spaghetti strands around with a long fork so that they don't stick together during the first minute.
Cut 6 oz guanciale 1/8-inch thick, then in strips not longer than tooth-picks. Place in a sauté pan over low heat to melt the fat, then increase heat to medium to get nice crisp pieces. Remove from heat.
In a medium bowl, whisk 4 egg yolks with a fork, along with 2 tbsp fresh pecorino romano cheese and 1tsp freshly ground black pepper.