The Beauty of "Natural" Makeup

Celia Ellenberg



A quick survey of the hair and makeup at Chloé placed it squarely within the minimal, "real girl" beauty framework that has dominated the spring collections thus far. "We've seen a lot of organic, casual, undone [looks] this season," hairstylist James Pecis was the first to admit backstage. But a few small distinctions gave this show a clear identity, by offering a stealthily polished alternative to the raw, untouched aesthetic that has proved so popular on the runway of late.

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"It's just a tiny detail," Pecis said of the deliberately straight texture he gave models' strands, which created the impression of something more considered, while staying true to the French house's sophisticated, bohemian chic roots. Other such details included clean, high-precision center parts, and pre-cut extensions, which Pecis used not to lengthen hair but to add a layered fullness for a "healthy" quality-a welcome sight for models whose strands have been ravaged by three consecutive weeks of shows.

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For her part, makeup artist Diane Kendal was eschewing matte skin in favor of dewy complexions that were custom-contoured to suit each girl's face. "It's fresh, luminous-that's the key," she said creating a flawless base, then gently teasing out cheekbones with a mix of MAC Sculpting Cream in Copper Beach and Cream Colour Base in Bronze. Using a neat pro trick, Kendal then used concentrated finger dabs of the brand's Mineralize Charged Water Moisturizer to remove makeup for a more translucent feel that she ultimately finished with light layers of pressed powder to eliminate shine through the T-zone. Rimming lids with a diffused application of MAC Powerpoint Eye Pencil in Duck, a dark brown that was buffed around the upper and lower lash lines, she added a light haze around the eyes rather than anything too precise. Kendal turned her attention to brows next, which she personally tweaked on every single girl using an arsenal of pencils, mascaras, and one very well-loved wooden brush. It stopped just short of no-makeup makeup-and was perhaps all the better for it.

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