Making the Case for Undone Hair



If you're amongst the legions of New York women with a standing Monday-morning blowout appointment, this weekend's lineup of runway shows may have elicited a long-awaited sigh of relief. Like the season's best pieces-easy featherweight slip dresses, perfectly cut silk pants-spring's new spirit of effortlessness calls for a relaxing of the beauty rules, too.

"It's sensual," said backstage hairstylist Odile Gilbert of the fuzzy, rumpled bedhead she created backstage at Thakoon, which seemed to make the case for giving in to a few extra minutes of sleep-and giving up your hairbrush altogether. To create models' deliberately "messy" day-old waves, she twisted sections into thin ropes as they dried to create a natural bend that she shook out and blasted with Kérastase Powder Bluff dry shampoo. Paired with the designer's charming slip dresses and lingerie-inspired tanks and single-strand pearl necklaces, the effect was quietly romantic.

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That slightly pillow-flattened quality has been turning up elsewhere on major runways all week-including Alexander Wang, where models wore their rumpled lengths with reworked cotton boxer shorts and babydoll dresses.

At Peter Som, hairstylist Eugene Souleiman crafted raked-back flyway knots instead, using Wella's Ocean Spritz texture spray and some concentrated finger-combing. "I felt the hair needed a coolness," he said of the look, which, worn down the runway with the designer's relaxed pants and printed day coats, seemed to offer up a pulled-together work-day solution to the age-old problem of slightly dirty hair.

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Backstage at Opening Ceremony, Anthony Turner used a mix of Bumble and Bumble's Thickening Hairspray and the company's Styling Creme to keep hair "downtown, but real." The resulting finish of his pulled-back, undone ponytails conjured a restless night's sleep-or a good workout. "It's almost gym hair in a sense," he said, avoiding combs or brushes as not to upset its delicate, disheveled balance. At Vera Wang this morning, hairstylist Jimmy Paul echoed that sentiment, citing the show's sporty influence as inspiration. "It was a happy accident," he admitted of the look. "It's how the stylist had it at the fitting yesterday. Her ponytail got caught in her rubber band-and we just decided to keep it." Proof that the label's free-spirited cool girl doesn't need much to look great.

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