The Truth About 8 Powerful Anti-Aging Ingredients

The Editors of Prevention

So you're ready to try something new. You don't want an industrial-strength Rx, and fillers aren't your thing. So you book it to the beauty aisle and...you're more confused than ever. While some ingredients are supported by sound science--and produce results you can see--others, not so much. That's why we spoke to experts, pored over dozens of labels, and even slathered on serums and moisturizers ourselves (hey, somebody's gotta do it). Here, the truth about the latest, best anti-aging ingredients, plus products that contain the ones that really work. Keep reading to find out which ones are worthy of your hard-earned dollar.

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DNA Repair Ingredients
"DNA repair ingredients" are a host of compounds (some are derived from plankton or rose myrtle extract) that reverse sun damage," says Debra Jaliman MD, assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, and media spokesperson for the American Academy of Dermatology. They also have growth factors that stimulate collagen, a skin-firming protein that depletes with age and makes skin look loose. "And these effects are permanent," she says.

Look for "DNA repair" on the label to ensure you're getting what you're paying for. "Neova DNA Total Repair [$99; neova.com] contains ingredients derived from plankton that undoes DNA damage in cells and prevents UV-induced cell death," she says.

Hyaluronic Acid
Eric Schweiger, MD, a dermatologist in New York City, says hyaluronic acid ($40; dermalogica.com) is a natural component of the skin. "It is an excellent dermal filler when injected into deep wrinkles because it absorbs large amounts of moisture to fill them in," he explains. While you shouldn't expect over-the-counter products to replace Botox or fillers, they can be used to smooth your skin temporarily.

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B Vitamins
Many forms of vitamin B (like B12) can only be absorbed in the small intestine, so no matter how much is loaded into your moisturizer or serum, it's not going to make a difference. "Vitamins like niacin have profound effect on the skin's texture and color, but your skin can't absorb them," Dr. Jaliman explains.
If you really want to tap into the power of vitamin B to improve your skin's glow and appearance, stick to eating leafy greens like spinach, asparagus, beans, and peas. Check out The Pretty Skin Diet for more healthy (and delicious) ways to improve your complexion.

Glycolic Acid
It always seems to go like this: The big day comes (a date, a job interview, your kid's graduation), and you look less than glowy. Your new best friend? "Glycolic acid [$39.99; avon.com] helps skin look radiant and smooth because it's able to exfoliate dead, lusterless skin cells," says Coyle S. Connolly, a board certified dermatologist in Linwood, NJ. "Plus, it stimulates collagen-producing cells so they produce more collagen."

Still, there's a catch: It falls into the "use it or lose it" category. "The benefits stop once you stop using the product on a consistent basis, so you need to use it daily, or per the label, for long-lasting benefits."

Caffeine
Much like the effects of that Venti Americano on your brain, caffeine in skin creams ($12.99; drugstores) can give a shot of life to your skin, too. Until it wears off, that is: "Caffeine temporarily reduces puffiness, especially around your eyes," explains Ariel Ostad, MD, a New York City dermatologist specializing in anti-aging treatments. "But don't expect permanent results." (Permanent or not, after a late night, though, who doesn't need a little pick me up?) Speaking of java, here are 5 Signs You've Had Too Much Caffeine.

Vitamin C
Your skin relies on antioxidants like vitamin C ($100; skinceuticals.com) for protection against free radicals that can cause damage and speed up signs of aging. "Since the skin receives the most free radical assault from UV light, replenishing and increasing your skin's antioxidant defense is an attractive strategy for photo-protection and repair," says Lawrence Samuels, MD, chief of dermatology at St. Luke's Hospital in St. Louis, MO. "Vitamin C is also essential for normal cell growth and collagen production." And unlike B vitamins, it's actually absorbed by your skin.

Peptides
How cool is this: "Peptides trick your skin into thinking it's lost collagen, so it makes more," says Dr. Samuels. And the skin-smoothing effects are permanent: The cells continue to produce collagen, even after you stop using the product ($24.99; drugstores). That's the kind of trickery we can get behind.

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Vitamin E
When eaten in foods like eggs, olive oil, and green leafy vegetables, vitamin E works from the inside out to help keep the body running smoothly and skin looking healthy. Buyer beware, however: It has little to recommend it when used topically, according to Dr. Ostad.

You may be scratching your head, certain you've seen hype about how E can increase collagen production, but science has yet to prove the claim. "Several studies have tested the idea that vitamin E stimulates collagen, but they've shown it to be false," says Dr. Ostad. "And in one study, a third of people using vitamin E even developed a skin irritation known as contact dermatitis." For now, our suggestion: Save your money for extra virgin olive oil.

Retinol
"Retinol's a remarkably diverse and unique work-horse that plays a key role in the health of the skin and the aging process," says Dr. Samuels. "When applied to the skin, retinol converts to retinoic acid which helps promote growth of new, healthy skin cells." Not just that, it can also lighten brown spots and stimulate hyaluronic acid production, which preserves collagen, and firms and tightens skin.

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