America's Most Secret Restaurants
When dining out, not all secrets are meant to be kept - at least that's partly the intent with the "secret" restaurant trend. Unmarked entrances, unadvertised contact information, and word-of-mouth marketing are typical attributes of this deliberately cryptic experience. Clandestine appeal aside, though, it would be a shame to limit the joy of stumbling upon a well-kept location to this narrow definition.
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"Secret" can be an underground speakeasy, as much as it can be Hop Kee's (a not-so-secret secret restaurant) subterranean entrance. It can also imply an obligatory reservation (on a Tuesday) to be seated in a 35-person dining room in a town of 2,100 people. Moreover, what's a well-known "secret" to locals in a city like New York (La Esquina, for instance), might conserve its appeal for tourists. You could even argue that the term also applies to known and beloved establishments with tacit practices: a secret menu, for instance.
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So what's the motivation for chefs and restaurant owners who purposefully construct this ambiance? For many, it was originally a way to set themselves apart from the traditional competition. As we noted in last year's list, the trend's popularity has even become a publicity stunt for some (installation of signs reading "Speakeasy" above the entrance, for example). As the "under-the-radar" idea develops, though, it is also becoming a provocative means for a restaurant to compose a unique experience for an invested audience. According to Knife & Fork chef and co-owner Nate Allen (whose restaurant is easily a 40-minute minimum drive from any major highway traversing western North Carolina), a worthwhile dining experience in an unusual location is not about convenience; it should be the reward for a curious and committed diner.
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No matter how the following restaurants choose to operate or advertise, their limited accessibility and mysterious allure tempt us. They whet our appetite for a unique meal, and even with a greasy hamburger wrapper, increase our desire for exclusivity.
Safe House, Milwaukee, WI
Safe House, a spy-themed Wisconsin restaurant, remains inconspicuous to the outside world. There is no sign marking its location, and only "secret agents" with the password are permitted. As one anonymous "agent" explained, "A safe house is a haven for spies. Spies need a little R&R, furtive feasting, and surreptitious sipping after missions." Its very lack of advertising has made it one of the hottest spots in Milwaukee. How hard is it to join the club? The agent elaborates, "There are at least 39 steps from wherever you are, maybe more. None are difficult and we're very accessible, especially if you find a friendly spy who will take you there. Just make sure you're not followed to our secret location." If you manage to make it to Safe House, word on this street is that they make a mean martini.
Manducatis, Queens, NY
Amid the fast-growing neighborhood of Long Island City, Queens, behind an unassuming storefront, the Cerbone family has been serving old-school Italian food since 1977. There is barely any evidence from the busy street that a New York institution lies behind the door, but when you walk through and into the bar-vestibule and sit down for a meal at one of the tables in this labyrinthine classic, it won't be hard to figure out why Manducatis needs no advertisement.
Club 33 Anaheim, CA
Club 33 is an exclusive club within the New Orleans section of Disneyland, and its exclusivity borders on the occult. Less than 500 members are permitted, and the time on the waiting list allegedly averages around 14 years (the unofficial web site said at the time of publication that the waiting list has been closed). Legend has it that Walt Disney began Club 33 as a way to wine and dine important guests and clients. Only those possessing a membership card have access past the discreet "33" mirror at the entryway within the park.
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Hudson Clearwater, NYC
Hudson Clearwater doesn't hide their phone number or address, but if you don't know to look for it, you probably won't find it. The restaurant's address looks like an abandoned storefront, and you have to enter through an unmarked green door on a cross street to discover the patio and dining room. It's worth the hunt - chef Wes Long's thoughtfully crafted, seasonal American fare (including dishes like pan-roasted quail and gnocchi with butter clams) would appeal to anyone fortunate enough to stumble upon it.
Vernon's Hidden Valley Steakhouse, Albuquerque, N.M.
This "high-class speakeasy" is located within the Village Shops at Los Ranchos. Formerly in the corner of a liquor store, Vernon's Hidden Valley Steakhouse is hidden behind an outside door with no signage or marking. Diners must knock three times and give a secret password to enter. The password changes weekly, so even those aware of the location can't gain easy access. A VIP lounge in the back of the restaurant with its own password (perks include car service and kitchen access) adds another level of exclusivity to the already discreet dining room.
Chef Vola's, Atlantic City, NJ
You have to be in the family to get a seat at one of Chef Vola's 12 tables in Atlantic City, N.J. or at least that's the mystique surrounding the Italian eatery. The unmarked establishment is located in the basement of a house and welcomes only those with the right connections. The web site is no help - password-protected, revealing no phone number or address, it offers only a picture of the Esposito family and this elusive greeting: "In 2007, the Esposito family celebrated their 25th anniversary at Chef Vola's restaurant. Thank you and God bless."
Bohemian, NYC
Says representative Kimi Watanabe, "Bohemian New York is an invitation/referral only SECRET HIDE-OUT for our beloved NAKAMA (Japanese for 'a group of people who are feeling the same vibe'). Our phone number is kept confidential among our repeat customers and their friends and family. In order to gain access to a reservation, those interested must be referred by someone who has been to Bohemian. Or, send us a brief self-introduction through our web site (in time they may receive an invitation)."
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- Lauren Wilson, The Daily Meal
