Chefs you need to know: Suzanne Goin
Before the winner of this year's James Beard Foundation Award for "Outstanding Chef" is announced tonight, get to know the contenders--and cook some of their food.
Many great chefs have come through the kitchen of Alice Waters' Chez Panisse restaurant, but Suzanne Goin may be one of the best. "She was a standout," said Waters. "We all knew immediately that one day she would have a restaurant of her own, and that other cooks would be coming to her for kitchen wisdom and a warm welcome."
Eight years after leaving Chez Panisse, Goin did have her own restaurant, but not before training under more culinary superstars like Alain Passard, Todd English, and Nancy Silverton. In 1998 she opened Lucques in Los Angeles, and today she owns four other restaurants in L.A. and Santa Barbara including AOC, The Hungry Cat, and her newest venture, Tavern, which opened in May 2009.
What do you think defines an Outstanding Chef?
To be a great chef, you can't cook every plate of food yourself. You have to teach and mentor others to cook as well as you can. An outstanding chef has an inspired culinary vision, but also has to be a great manager and has to be business savvy. It's rewarding to see people you've mentored going in their own directions to carry out your vision in their own ways.
How did you get into cooking?
When I was 10 years old, I went through magazines or books and cooked from them. I remember especially cooking from Roger Verge's Cuisine of the Sun. My mom got the idea that I should cook for my parents' dinner parties. So I was the cook and my sister was the waitress. Senior year of high school I worked in the pastry kitchen of a restaurant and I worked in restaurants during college at Brown.
What dish are you most proud of?
Every year we make a cassoulet dish that is a big labor of love. It's a great rendition of a traditional dish that's culturally important in France. But honestly, I'm proud if something has been on the menu for two weeks and I still want to eat it.
How do you find balance in your life--family, friends, relaxation?
I take one day off a week, which I used to spend at the spa or going hiking to unwind a little. But as a mom of three young children (I have 3 year-old and 18-month-old twins), now I spend my days off with my kids. I laugh and say to my husband, "I feel like we run around at work like crazy, take care of the kids, sleep a little, and go back to running around." He says, "You feel that way because that is what we do."
What culinary fad would you like to see go away?
I hate thinking about food as a fad. I must admit I like the new food truck trend. And there is a rise in casual restaurants with chef-driven, seasonal dishes, which I hope is not a fad.
What advice do you have for young chefs who aspire to one day be on the finalist list for the JBF Outstanding Chef?
I feel intimidated to even be on this list. But my advice is to not focus on being on the list. Focus on learning as much as you can and following your passion--what drives you as a person and a chef. I got into this because I love food and have a dedication and passion for the business. If you don't love it more than anything on this earth, then get out now.
-Sarah Simmons
@sarahmcsimmons
Want to try out some Suzanne Goin recipes at home? Here are some she has contributed to Bon Appetit:Mustard-Roasted Chicken(pictured at left), Warm Frisee Salad with Fingerlings and Bacon, Braised Chicken with Creme Fraiche, andWhite Asparagus and Morel Saute
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