Eggplant Secrets: From Gardening to Making 3 Perfect Recipes
By Zester Daily Staff
For many years our idea of an eggplant was the great big American eggplant Mama Leone's used in the wonderful Melazane alla Parmigiana. Then along came the sleek, deep-purple Japanese eggplant, the round, petite and orange Turkish eggplant, the long green Thai eggplant and the options for cooking -- and growing -- eggplants opened up.
Here's a home cook's farm-to-table guide for growing, buying and cooking what should be one of your family's favorite go-to vegetable this summer.
HOW TO GROW EGGPLANT
Growing from seed: Sow eggplant indoors in temperatures of 75-80 F. A good quality seed starter mix -- homemade or store bought -- will get the seedlings off to a good start. Pre-soak for 12 hours beforehand. Germination is 7-14 days. Sow 1 inch apart in seed trays, then make sure to transfer up to individual pots and allow each to grow out before planting in the garden. They are ready to be planted out when the stem is a tad woody and resistant to bug attacks. Somewhat slow growing at first, eggplants quickly pick up pace once the summer heat arrives.
Soil preparation: Prepare the soil with rich compost and an organic vegetable fertilizer. Space 18 inches apart. Pinch out some of the flowers on larger varieties, but let the small types set as many eggplants as possible. Staking with a small bamboo cane helps keep the vegetables off the soil and allows the slender varietals to grow straight.
Cultivating: As plants grow, mulch to help keep soil moist. Water well and feed midseason with a potash-rich liquid fertilizer. Again, remember to pinch off some flowers in the larger varieties. Spraying with water can help with pollination.
Harvesting: Always use pruners or sharp scissors to cut from the stem. Pick off the vegetables from smaller varieties to ensure a steady supply all season. Use them right away and never keep in the refrigerator.
Saving seeds: If you grow an interesting heirloom variety you can save the seeds by removing them from eggplants that are allowed to really ripen on the plant. Wash the seeds under water and dry on a towel. Store in a dark cool place until next season.
Related: Tracing the history of '100 ways to prepare an eggplant'
HOW TO SHOP FOR EGGPLANT
When buying eggplant, look for vegetables that are uniformly smooth and colored, without bruises. Squeeze the eggplant gently with a finger and then let go: The eggplant will reform smoothly again if it is fresh. The eggplant should feel heavy. Store eggplant in the refrigerator on a middle shelf, not in the crisper drawer.
Related: Quick and easy recipes to grill eggplant the Greek way
HOW TO COOK EGGPLANT
Purging: Many recipes call for salting the slices of eggplant before cooking to leech it of bitter juices. Modern eggplant cultivation has removed its bitterness so it's not absolutely necessary to do this. On the other hand, many cooks salt eggplant out of habit. Salting improves eggplant's texture if it's going to be fried, but that's the only reason to purge it.
Related: A Lebanese lamb and eggplant stew recipe
Frying: Eggplant will drink up as much oil as you give it. You can get around this by softening eggplant in a hot oven or under a broiler. That way you don't have to use so much oil. These techniques are not traditional, but they work.
3 EGGPLANT RECIPES
1. Sicilian Quaglie di Melanzane (Courtesy of Clifford A. Wright)
Serves 8
Ingredients
6 to 8 cups olive oil for frying
10 small round or oval eggplant (about 1½ pounds)
Directions
1. Preheat the frying oil in a deep-fryer or an 8-inch saucepan fitted with a basket insert to 375 F.
2. Starting from the base, slice the eggplant in four or five places all the way through keeping the slices attached to the base. Deep-fry, pushing them around in the hot oil, until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove and drain.
3. When cool enough to handle, arrange the eggplant on a platter and fan the cut end slightly. Season with salt and parsley and serve.
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2. Balkan Style Moussaka (Courtesy of Martha Rose Shulman)
Serves 6
Let's face it: There are more bad moussakas than good ones being served in Greek restaurants all over the country, and in Greece too I might add. But this one is the best moussaka I've ever eaten. The meat filling, spiced with a little cinnamon, a pinch of allspice, a few cloves, has complex, sweet and savory Eastern Mediterranean flavors. Unlike the traditional Greek bechamel, which can be heavy, even gummy, this Balkan-style moussaka has a light topping made with yogurt and eggs.
Ingredients
For the eggplant:
2-2½ pounds (3 medium or 2 large) eggplant
Salt
Extra virgin olive oil
For the meat:
1 pound minced or ground lamb or beef (leaner is better)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped, with juice, or one 14-ounce can, with juice
1 heaped tablespoon tomato paste
½ teaspoon sweet paprika
¼ rounded teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 cloves, ground
Pinch of allspice (2 or 3 berries), ground
½ teaspoon sugar
1 bay leaf
½ to 1 cup hot water
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 egg, beaten
For the topping:
4 eggs, beaten
1½ cups plain thick Greek style yogurt
Salt (about ½ teaspoon), pepper and a pinch of paprika
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan, kefalotyri or kashkaval cheese
Directions
1. Preheat the oven to 450 F and oil baking sheets with olive oil. Slice the eggplants lengthwise, about ⅓-inch thick. Salt the slices, place on oiled baking sheets and brush the tops with olive oil. Bake 10 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned and cooked through. Remove from the heat and cover the baking sheets with foil. Turn the oven down to 350 F.
2. Make the meat and tomato filling. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add the minced meat. Cook, stirring, until the meat has browned and rendered its fat, about 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour off fat. Set the meat aside. Add a couple of tablespoons of water to the pan and deglaze with a wooden spoon. Add to the meat.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in the pan over medium heat and add the onions. Cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes, and add the garlic. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about a minute, and stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, the browned meat, paprika, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, sugar, bay leaf, salt, and enough water to cover the meat. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer 45 minutes to an hour, stirring occasionally. The mixture should be thick and very fragrant. Cook uncovered for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the liquid in the pan is just about gone. Remove the bay leaf, stir in the pepper and remove from the heat. Taste and adjust salt. Remove from the heat and set aside. When the mixture has cooled slightly, stir in the beaten egg and the parsley.
3. Oil a 3-quart baking dish or gratin dish. Make an even layer of half the eggplant over the bottom, and spread all of the meat sauce on top in one layer. Top with a layer of the remaining eggplant. Place in the 350 F oven and bake for 30 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, beat together the eggs and yogurt, season with salt (about ½ teaspoon) and stir in the pepper and paprika. Pour over the top of the moussaka, scraping out every last drop with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle the grated cheese evenly over the top. Return to the oven and bake for another 25 to 30 minutes, until golden. Serve warm.
* * *
3. Greek Roasted Eggplant Salad With Feta and Herbs
From Diane Kochilas' forthcoming book, "Country Cooking of Greece" (Chronicle Books, 2012)
For 8-10 meze servings
Ingredients
3 large eggplants
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large red onion, finely chopped
2 medium green bell peppers, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
8 ounces (about 1½ cups) crumbled feta
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch of cayenne to taste
Directions
1. Wash and pat the eggplants dry. Keep stems intact.
2. Roast the eggplants over an open flame or grill, either on a barbecue or under the broiler. Keep about 6 inches from heat source if grilling. Turn occasionally so that the eggplants roast evenly on all sides.
3. When the skins have charred all around, remove to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool for a few minutes, until cool enough to handle. Using a sharp knife, cut the eggplant down the center and peel away the skin. Cut the pulp using a crisscrossing motion with a knife and remove the pulp to a bowl. As you do this, remove and discard as many seeds as possible without wasting too much of the pulp.
4. Squeeze the lemon, then pour the olive oil over the pulp and toss quickly. Do not mash the eggplant with a fork; just toss.
5. Add the onion, peppers, garlic, feta and seasonings, toss to combine and serve.
Contributing: Clifford A. Wright, Martha Rose Shulman, Diana Kochilas, John Lyons.
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