No More Boring Cauliflower: 3 New Recipes to Make an Inexpensive, Healthy Veggie Exciting

Forget the white, boiled-to-death cauliflower from your childhood. Embrace colorful, flavorful new cauliflower …By Martha Rose Shulman

I have rarely met a cauliflower dish that I didn't like (well, since my boarding school days, but that's a lifetime ago). This cruciferous vegetable lends itself to salads and curries, soups and beignets, gratins and pasta dishes.

Now that we have fancy purple and golden cauliflowers alongside the white ones at many farmers markets, this vegetable is beginning to develop a bit of a cachet and a price tag, but I'll settle for a nice white cauliflower for under $2.

Related: Don't overcook the broccoli! Give it a quick turn on the griddle.

The trick with cauliflower is to cook it enough, but not to overcook it. Those who don't like the vegetable are probably still informed by memories of overcooked cauliflower served in a college or boarding school dining hall with a gloppy cheese sauce.

Related: Tips for cooking crisp, flavorful cauliflower and other brassica veggies.

You'll get over it when you try these Mediterranean cauliflower dishes.

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Pasta With Cauliflower, Tomato Sauce and Olives

Serves 4

Throughout Italy and Greece, and in North Africa, you'll find this triumvirate of cauliflower, tomatoes and olives in all sorts of dishes.

Ingredients

½ medium head of cauliflower, broken into florets

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

¼ to ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, to taste

1 (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes or chopped tomatoes in with juice, pulsed in a food processor fitted with the steel blade

Pinch of sugar

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

Salt

12 kalamata olives, pitted and cut in half lengthwise

¾ pound farfalle, penne, rigatoni or spaghetti

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 ounces either feta (crumbled), ricotta salata, Parmesan, or a mix of Parmesan and Pecorino (grated)

Directions

1. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil and add the cauliflower. Boil for 5 minutes and transfer to a bowl of ice water. Drain and blot dry. Cover the pot; you'll use the water again for the pasta. Quarter the cauliflower florets and set aside.

2. In a wide frying pan, or in a 3-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat and add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

3. Add the tomatoes, sugar, thyme, and salt, and bring to a simmer. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often, until thick, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the cauliflower and the olives and simmer a few minutes more. Taste and adjust seasonings.

4. Bring the water back to a rolling boil. Add the pasta and cook until the pasta is al dente. Add a ladleful of the pasta water to the pan with the tomatoes and cauliflower. Drain the pasta and toss with the cauliflower/tomato mixture and the parsley. Sprinkle the cheese over the top and serve at once.

Advance preparation: The recipe can be made through Step 2 as much as a day before serving. Keep in the refrigerator overnight, or on the stove, off heat, for a few hours.

* * *

Cauliflower With Red Onion, Capers, Parsley and Vinegar

Serves 4 to 6 as an antipasto

Ingredients

1 large or 2 small or medium cauliflower heads, broken into florets

1 small red onion, cut in half, then thinly sliced across the grain into half-moons

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

¼ cup capers, drained and rinsed

3 tablespoons champagne vinegar

7 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a generous amount of salt, and the cauliflower. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes, or until tender. Transfer to a bowl of ice-cold water, then drain.

2. Meanwhile, place the sliced red onion in a bowl and cover with cold water and 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar. Let sit for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse in several changes of water.

3. In a large bowl, mix together the garlic, parsley, capers, champagne vinegar and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the cauliflower and toss together. Let marinate, stirring from time to time, for 30 minutes if possible before serving. Serve warm, cold or at room temperature, with plenty of Italian bread for soaking up the marinade.

Advance preparation: This keeps well in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. You should replenish the parsley, which will have faded after a day.

* * *

Deep-Fried Cauliflower

Serves 6 as a meze

Much as I shun most deep-fried food, I can never resist this Middle Eastern classic.

Ingredients

For the cauliflower:

1 medium size cauliflower, broken into florets

6 cups peanut, grapeseed, light olive or canola oil for deep-frying

Salt

For the tahini garlic sauce:

2 to 3 garlic cloves, to taste, cut in half, green shoots removed

Salt

1 cup tahini

¼ to ¾ cup fresh lemon juice, to taste

Pinch or more of red pepper flakes, to taste (optional)

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Directions

1. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Fill a bowl with ice water. When the water reaches a boil, add the cauliflower and parboil for 4 minutes. Transfer to the ice water, then drain thoroughly. Pat the florets dry with paper towels.

2. Heat the oil in a deep-fryer, a wok, or a large saucepan to 360 to 375 F. Drop in the cauliflower, a few florets at a time, and deep-fry to a golden brown, turning the florets in the oil so they cook evenly. This should take no more than 3 minutes. Remove from the oil using a deep-fry skimmer or a slotted spoon, and drain briefly on paper towels, then set the florets on a rack and sprinkle with salt.

3. Purée the garlic cloves with ¼ teaspoon salt in a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl, and whisk in the sesame tahini. Whisk in the lemon juice, beginning with the smaller amount. The mixture will stiffen up. Gradually whisk in up to ¾ cup water, until the sauce has the consistency of thick cream (or runny yogurt). Add the red pepper flakes if using, and salt to taste.

4. Drizzle cauliflower florets with garlic tahini sauce, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.

Advance preparation: The cauliflower may be blanched several hours or even a day ahead, and held in the refrigerator. Make sure to blot dry before frying.

The sauce keeps, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for a week, but the fresher it is, the better. It will thicken as it sits. Thin out each time with water or water and lemon juice.

Variation:

Parsley Tahini Sauce: Stir in 1 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley.

Zester Daily contributor Martha Rose Shulman is the award-winning author of more than 25 cookbooks. Her latest is "The Very Best of Recipes for Health," published by Rodale.

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