The Pleasure is All Mine: Lessons in Cooking for One

As a single person I mostly cook for one, and while I'm capable of broiling a pork chop and searing a piece of fish, I seem to eat typical "for one" meals like soup or salad for far too many lunches and dinners. Somehow, despite my skills and my own preferences (I don't even like salad that much), I hardly ever make a decent (or well-rounded) meal for myself.

But, once I started reading Suzanne Pirret's new book, The Pleasure is All Mine, I have to admit, I'm inspired to get back to the kitchen and treat myself to more home-cooked meals. Pirret's book is part memoir, part cookbook: It features 100 recipes (most with wine pairings from Colum Sheehan of New York 's Babbo) as well as short essays about her culinary experiences in New York , Los Angeles , Paris , and London . I see it as the type of book one can curl up with and read as well as take to the kitchen and actually use.

Pirret's goal is for you to put down the takeout menu and learn to cook for yourself. Not only that-she also wants you to enjoy it. And, as a single person and former chef, Pirret is equipped to show you how. The essays and recipes are written in a refreshingly casual and conversational tone. In fact, some of my favorite passages involve Pirret's tangential commentary. In a recipe for fried chicken, she instructs you to "Continue with your social networking sites" while waiting for the brine to cool. And, when pairing Gewürtraminer with croque monsieur, she insists, "First pronounce it. Go on. 'Guh-vehrtz-tra-meena,' but with a heavy German accent (Alsatian, really, but that's trickier). And to look the part of a German, you'll need the skill of a ventriloquist, or a ton of Botox (keep mouth and face immobile and expressionless)."

On the eve of The Pleasure is All Mine's publication, I spoke to Pirret about the book and her approach to cooking. Plus, Pirret shared three great recipes from her book:


Epicurious: How did you come up with the concept for The Pleasure Is All Mine?

Suzanne Pirret: It began as a backlash to flowery cookbooks. I wanted a strong narrative with food stories that were personality-driven. The cooking for one concept is something people seem to be ashamed of for some reason-and I wanted to break the myth. I cook for myself fairly often and love it! The recipes were inspired by the stories yet I wanted them to be consistent with the narrative-written conversationally and with a real voice. So much easier to do with one portion.

Epicurious: How would you describe your cooking style?

Suzanne Pirret: Always classic techniques, an emphasis on the best and most seasonal ingredients, and nothing fussy. Ever.

Epicurious: Tell us about your approach to cooking for one?

Suzanne Pirret: Definitely begin with a glass of wine and take it from there. Make it all very chill, with zero stress, and lots of experimentation. And, this is most important: as little equipment as possible because I hate cleaning up so that's always a fun challenge. Because you're working with such small portions, the sky is the limit. Some of the best recipes come from so-called mistakes.

Epicurious: In your book, you talk a lot about working in restaurant kitchens-do you miss it?

Suzanne Pirret: Are you kidding me? Working in restaurant kitchens is brutal. Think about it-in most circumstances, you're trapped in a small space under fluorescent lights, with endless work, and surrounded by heaving testosterone for roughly 16 hours a day. I have the deepest admiration and respect for all chefs who can work and thrive under those circumstances. Otherwise, you just burn out.

What I do miss, though, is the intensity of when service begins-keeping your head down, your senses heightened in knowing exactly what's happening at every moment around you, yet being completely focused on creating perfection with every plate in front of you. I do miss that.

Epicurious: What's your favorite recipe from your book to make for yourself?

Suzanne Pirret: It depends on what I feel like, my mood, and what's available. I am partial to Spaghetti alla Bottarga, which takes about two minutes longer than the pasta takes to cook and never lets me down. Simple decadence that you can have year 'round. And well, the brownie. It's one large oozy brownie with a crackly crust-it's five ingredients, a dash of sea salt, a handful of toasted walnuts and in about ten minutes, it's baking in the oven. Perfect every time.

Epicurious: There's a video of you online preparing your birthday dinner-do you always cook in such beautiful dresses?

Suzanne Pirret: Absolutely. Although sometimes I just can't be bothered and cook naked. But only at large dinner parties.

By Lauren Salkeld

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