The Ultimate Sides to Southern Cuisine

"Fred Thompson's Southern Sides"
Reviewed by David Marshall James

Southerners often make meals off of side dishes, particularly if they contain cheese, but what could be better, come autumn, than a baked sweet potato with collard greens and a wedge of skillet cornbread?

Or, as my Grandmother used to say, "Let's fry us up a hoecake of cornbread"?

Heaps of family traditions abound in Fred Thompson's tribute to Southern side dishes, as he explains the origins, sources, and inspirations for each recipe (all 250) in this satisfyingly inclusive cookbook.

Among the many fine points of this guide are the author's specifications of of which product brands to use, say of mayonnaise when preparing pimento cheese, deviled eggs, potato salad, or cole slaw. He offers multiple variations of such classic dishes as these, as well as of baked beans and barbecue sauces.

For instance, one type of cole slaw pairs better with BBQ, while another is better suited to fried fish.

Another reason to rave on this volume is that the author-- a veteran cook, cookbook author, and North Carolinian-- goes retro with some wonderful Jell-O salad recipes.

My grandmothers whipped up homemade biscuits and pie crusts, but they were forever trotting out new
Jell-O recipes, or re-presenting the tried-and-true. Electric refrigeration emerged during their lifetimes. Any dish that could be prepared ahead, served cold, and that kept for several days was a boon to the busy housewife, who cooked primarily from scratch.

Thompson serves up an array of recipes for refrigerator pickles, chutneys, relishes, and conserves, stating how each complements other foods.

Aside from casseroles, he leaves off baking at biscuits and cornbread, again providing multiple variations on these indispensable Southern sides.

Potatoes, tomatoes, peas, and beans all receive their due, and then some, as do squash and eggplant.

Thompson includes some noveau-inspired and ethnic-influenced recipes. After all, his son-in-law-- a frequent collaborator-- works as a chef. Yet the author sticks mostly to traditional fare, from fried green tomatoes and fried okra to stuffed peppers and stuffing in general, as well as baked dressing.

Thompson suggests some holiday menus, along with his notes on what partners best with other foods, and those are given throughout the volume.

With family gatherings, parties, and drop-ins drawing nigh for the holidays, you are certain to gather ideas herein on what to carry and what to serve. Why not give something homemade, in a jar? Pickled shrimp are generally welcome, and are perfect for fast-and-easy hors d'oeuvres. Thompson even employs them instead of olives, onions, or lemon twists to glam up martinis!

I've also seen pickled okra employed as such, and there's a recipe for those, too. Flatten and trim a piece of loaf bread, spread it with cream cheese (or one of Thompson's pimento cheeses), roll up a pod of pickled okra thereon, and slice. Voila-- a delectable and appealing-looking canape.

How about giving a tin of cheese straws or a cheese ball, or even a container of homemade pimento cheese: All never-fail appetizers.

With Thompson's guide, you can certainly make it happen.