What's in Season: Cooking with Ramps

What we call ramps are actually wild leeks that are native to the forests of eastern North America and grow as far west as Minnesota. In many places, they are one of the first edible plants to break through the soil in the early spring; foragers know them by their narrow green leaves and red-purple stems.

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For centuries, Native Americans valued vitamin C-rich ramps for their capacity to cleanse blood and fight scurvy. Throughout southern Appalachia, the appearance of ramps each year remains an occasion for festivals and celebratory meals.

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A member of the lily family, ramps can be substituted for leeks, scallions, garlic, or onions in all kinds of dishes. Strong and garlicky in flavor, with a pungent aroma, whole with leaves intact, they are delicious grilled and served over creamy grits, or baked into an elegant savory tart while the white stems alone make an addictive pickle, or an unexpected aioli to drizzle over grilled vegetables.

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Feel free to experiment- try them sautéed in olive oil with a bit of sea salt or mixed into a simple pasta dish or potato gratin. You can also blanch them as you would asparagus and serve with a butter sauce; add them to a quiche or frittata; braise them in cream or stock along with chicken or rabbit. But whichever way you cook them, enjoy them now, because ramp season doesn't last long!

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Featured Recipe: Grilled Ramps with Creamy Grits
Bright, oniony ramps add a touch of springtime to a comforting southern staple. SERVES 6-8

INGREDIENTS
Kosher salt, to taste
1¼ cups quick-cooking grits
12 oz. white cheddar, grated
½ cup half-and-half
3 tbsp. unsalted butter
¼ tsp. cayenne
4 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste with 1 tsp. kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
12 oz. ramps, trimmed
3 tbsp. olive oil
1 bay leaf

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Bring 5 cups salted water to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan over high heat. Gradually whisk in grits; reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened and tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in cheddar, half-and-half, butter, cayenne, garlic paste, and season with salt and pepper. Pour grits onto a serving platter.

2. Heat a cast iron grill pan over medium-high heat. Grill ramps in 2 batches until leaves are wilted and ramps are tender and slightly charred, about 5 minutes. Place over grits, drizzle with oil and season with salt and pepper.

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