13 Winter Beauty Mistakes
By Julie Giusti, Allure magazine
1. Lingering in a Hot Shower
When it's ten below outside, it's tempting to turn your morning shower into a half-hour steam-a-thon. But after about 15 minutes, all that heat begins to compromise your skin's lipid layer, a complex of fatty acids that holds in precious moisture. Turn down the heat as much as you can-or at least shorten your shower time.
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2. The Wrong Cleanser
Since drying soap lather is even worse for your lipid barrier than hot water, avoid soap-based facial cleansers. "In the winter, when there isn't as much moisture in the air, absolutely everyone needs a non-foaming cleanser," says Miami dermatologist Leslie Baumann.
For dry skin, she recommends Pond's Cold Cream, Murad Renewing Cleansing Cream, Shu Uemura Cleansing Oils, and Laura Mercier Cleansing Oil.
For oily and acne-prone skin, she likes Cetaphil.
3. Applying Foundation to Flaky Skin
No foundation, no matter how great the formula, looks good on dry skin-in fact, it will just highlight trouble. To keep the skin smooth, exfoliate regularly with a scrub containing gentle beads, and switch to (or add) a rich night cream. Try St. Ives Fresh Skin Moisturizing Olive Scrub and Clarins HydraQuench Rich Cream.
Then choose a moisturizing foundation with a dewy or satin (rather than matte) finish-avoid anything powdery. We like Chanel Lift Lumière Fluid Makeup and Maybelline New York Dream Liquid Mousse.
Another great option is tinted moisturizer, because it's so sheer and never looks caked-on. Elizabeth Arden Sheer Lights Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer has illuminating particles that give skin an extra boost.
4. The Wrong Lip Balm
It's no secret that your lips get more chapped in the winter, but not all balms are created equal: The most important thing is to use one that is viscous, not waxy, so the ingredients penetrate fissures. Stay away from anything with lanolin (especially if you have eczema or supersensitive skin), and, since fragrance is the number-one skin allergen, avoid anything that's heavily scented or tastes like your favorite candy. Try Kiehl's Lip Balm #1.
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5. Skipping SPF
"The sun's rays still exist in winter-your skin will still absorb them and be slowly damaged over time," says New York City dermatologist Ariel Ostad. "Even if you're only outside for a total of 30 minutes, five times per week-such as walking to work or taking a lunch break-over a year, that adds up to 7,800 minutes in the sun." To make sun protection easy, choose a daytime moisturizer with broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB) and at least SPF 30; we like Elizabeth Arden Prevage Day Ultra Protection Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 30 PA++.
6. Neglecting Your Hands
One more reason to wear gloves: Forgetting to do so "can lead to painfully cracked fingertips and peeling nails," says Catharine Lisa Kauffman, a dermatologist in Washington, D.C. Other hand tips: Since antibacterial hand soaps can be drying, use a mild, creamy one instead, rinse well with lukewarm water, and reapply hand cream every time. Once a week, rub cuticle oil into and around nails to keep them hydrated. Try SoftSoap Moisturizing Shea Butter Hand Soap, Neutrogena Age Shield Hand Cream SPF 30, and CND Solar Oil.
7. Frosty Lids
The weather may be frosty-but your eyelids shouldn't be. This time of year, frosted shadow can make your skin look washed-out (or make you look like an ice princess, and not in a good way). Instead, makeup artist Dick Page suggests metallic periwinkle blue and bronze shades as surprising winter choices. Try Shiseido Makeup Luminizing Satin Eye Colors in Blue Stone and Pyrite Sun.
8. Rough Feet
Sandpaper feet don't exactly say, "Let's cuddle." Not to mention that neglecting your feet all winter just makes it more difficult to whip them into shape for spring. As maintenance, get a pedicure at least every six weeks-or even better, follow this foot-softening routine once a week: Soak your feet in warm, soapy water for 15 minutes, then buff the soles with a foot file such as Tweezerman Pedro Callus Stone. To soften and help seal cracks, slick on an ointment, such as Aquaphor Advanced Therapy Healing Ointment or Lubriderm Intense Skin Repair Ointment; then wear cotton socks while you sleep.
9. Overbronzing
The Jersey Shore girls sure love to pile on the bronzer. For those of us who prefer a more natural glow, try a body lotion with a low dose of the self-tanning ingredient DHA, such as Dove Energy Glow Daily Moisturizer. If you really want to apply full-on self-tanner, check out our video on how to choose the right one for your skin tone.
For your face, beware of using your summer bronzer, or the result will look as ridiculous as a bikini in a blizzard. Instead, pick one that's no more than one shade darker than your skin tone. Blend it over the apples of the cheeks using a big round brush, then top it off with pink or rose blush.
10. Hat Head
Our mother told us to wear a hat in winter-and now style experts say the same. To prevent a hat from messing up your hair, "make sure hair is totally dry first-if it's even slightly damp, it will dry flattened-out under the hat," says hairstylist Garren, owner of the Garren New York salon. Prevent dents in long hair by gathering it into a loop and tucking it under the cap. To maintain volume in hair that's shoulder-length or longer, part it on the opposite side from where you normally do, then flip it back after you take the hat off. And for short hair, as soon as you remove your hat, put a little styling cream or even just water on your fingers, and run them over and under the roots to rough them up.
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11. Not Waterproofing Makeup
Waterproof formulas may seem like a summer-only thing, but when it's particularly windy or biting outside, regular eye makeup can end up running down your cheeks if you tear up. Switch to waterproof mascara and eyeliner, such as Maybelline New York Define-a-Lash Waterproof Lengthening Mascara and Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil, and use a cream shadow topped with a powder of the same color. And if you find that your foundation or blush tends to rub off on your coat or scarf, set it with a little translucent pressed powder before you head out the door. Try Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Pressed Powder in Translucent.
12. Haircolor Flub
White-blonde highlights that look perfect in the summer can highlight the wrong things in the winter-such as an ashy, pallid complexion. Same goes for a too-dark single-process. Use these tips to winterize your hair color:
If you're blonde, go more golden and less beige, and ask your colorist to weave both highlights and lowlights throughout your hair for a warmer look.
Light brunettes should consider deepening their hair to a warm chestnut color; dark brunettes, a deep chocolate hue. For both, be sure to ask your colorist for a multidimensional look. If you want highlights, ask for face-framing balayage ones-these hand-painted pieces tend to look more natural on dark hair than do foil streaks.
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Amp up red hair with a copper or deep auburn tone-anything but bluish or burgundy, which looks fake. Because red fades quickly, top the color with a clear glaze to seal it.
Don't go more than two shades lighter or darker-dramatic shifts can look severe against pale winter skin.
13. Ho-Hum Lips
Dark lipstick isn't mandatory the second the temperature dips. The new bright lip colors for spring happen to look great in the winter, as long as you choose a sheer formula. For medium to dark skin, try a stop-sign red like Yves Saint Laurent Gloss Volupte Stick in #3 or a coral shade such as L'Oréal Paris Colour Riche Lipcolour in Volcanic. If you have fair skin, try a blue-red like Maybelline New York Moisture Extreme Lipcolor in Cherry Rain or a hot pink hue like Dior Addict High Shine Lipstick in Backstage Pink.
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