Eggs and butter. That's all you need for truly amazing scrambled eggs. Unfortunately, eggs and butter are also the key ingredients in really bad scrambled eggs, the rubbery, flavorless kind you find too often in diners and restaurants. The fact is, your eggs will always live and die by how they're handled on the stovetop. Cook them too long and you extract the moisture and, with it, the flavor. But if you cook them gently and slowly, over low heat, you'll have the best eggs you've ever tasted. Crack them directly into the pan and, instead of scrambling them, slowly push them about with a rubber spatula. The whites stay white, the yolks a rich yellow. After a few minutes, you have scrambled eggs that are deeply flavored and wonderfully soft. It's that simple, and they are that good.
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 6 eggs
• Salt and pepper
1. In a nonstick pan over low heat, melt the butter. Then crack the eggs directly into the pan. Let them sit for about thirty seconds. Season with salt and pepper and then, with a rubber spatula, split the yolks. Every now and then, slowly massage the eggs around the pan. Don't overdo it-you want to keep the whites white and the yolks yellow. If you want to add cheese or herbs, do it while the eggs are still wet.
1. The eggs are done when they are still tender but not overly runny-just this side of underdone. They should take about two minutes. Serve with toast, bacon and, if necessary, a Bloody Mary to kick out the cobwebs from the night before.
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